Know a reliable plumber?
 

Got an older home, built in 1965, with a basement washing machine hookup. The standpipe is galvanized steel going into a floor drain. It's mounted into the drain solidly. Started having problems with the pipe overflowing and I decided to take a look at it. The pipe is almost completely rusted away where it enters the drain.

I'm hopeful although not confident that the pipe can be replaced without having to tear up the concrete. Can't see if it screws into the drain opening. It looks like it just goes into the center of the drain.

Anyone have experienced this sort of thing?

Expecting the worst...

DEMO DAY! GET OUT THE SLEDGE HAMMERS AND GO TO TOWN ON THAT BITCH!!!!

Although before you do that make sure you have you d that reliable plumber and give him a call before you start so he's there to stop the mess.

Hmmm, are you seeing any cracks?

Dude did you not even read the thread? He said there was a crack right down the middle that eventually leads to A Hole

Nice... Maybe I should just go rent a jackhammer and tear out the entire basement floor.

At least it made me smile for a moment. I'm going to go look and see if there are any signs of threads. Maybe I can get it out, I mean it's only 54 years old and rusted through a 3/16" thick wall of galvanized steel.

I wish I could help ya, but I'm pretty worthless when it comes to this kinda thing.

It will be threaded a heavy pipe wrench and pipe extension will probably break it loose.

can you post a photo?

Maybe the drain just needs to be cleaned, can you run a snake down the drainpipe to clean it out?

Is the washer the only one on this drain?

My home was build in 1956 I did this about 3 years ago. I did have to redress the threads because the were in bad shape. I know a lot of the older folks in the neighborhood just did away with the stand pipe alltogether and ran the washer drain hose direct with a extension and put a ped on wall to hang the drain hose above the water line. Some who couldnt break loose the stand pipe just chiseled a hole in the floor drain next to the pipe. I didnt like that idea but worked for them.

Important question: Do you live next door to TripleThreat?

Better have your shitter snaked, preventative maintenance

This is what it looks like... I attached a picture to the post.

Run the hose to your neighbors pool

ROFLROFLROFLROFL

Looks like this isn’t just something that has popped up

The pipe is so badly rusted that I can break it off if I want to. And I'm not a typical CP guy so there isn't much left of it.

Oh dear there is some rush there . . .

I am not a plumber but here is an educated guess . . .

I am wondering if will unscrew from the floor. With the outer grey ring being a threading portion of the drain and is part of the drain pipes under the floor.

And the inner portion attached to the drainpipe from the washer can be unscrewed by grabbing the two triangular tabs. If one had a special wrench for it or placed a screw driver against the tab and hit it with a hammer in a counterclock direction.

If so then you would have a thread pipe can can accept the new drain and you could get pipes and adapter pipes to get it down to the size of the new drain pipe.

However before doing this, you might want to some internet search on these type of drain connections.

It's hidden behind the washing machine in a poorly lit basement. I had to repair my washing machine and when I put the new pump in it, it started overflowing.

Nothing in a 55 year old home just pops up. I'm sure there's plenty of projects lurking.

I get roots in the main drain every few years and ended up buying one of those cheap china rooters. It's paid for itself.

Could you post a sweet ass video of you round house kicking through that mother ****er?

I CREATE the clogs, I don't FIX the clogs

Oh, this isn't a poop thread. Apologies, carry on.

Yeah, I noticed those tabs however there is a plug for a clean out on the front of the drain so I don't believe I can remove the drain.

I think it's time to call an expert...:cuss:

A quick search indicates that those tabs are for screws to hold a drain cover in place. I don't think it's going anywhere...

Okay good luck . . . i did some research on the internet, that drain might be a permanent in the floor. The issue might be to how to get the new pipe in the old drain hole, maybe there is something on the web that might help. I will look a bit more.

Here are a few things I found that might help get an idea of the design of the drain, but not necessarily how to utilize the old drain with new piping.

a video of cleaning a drain (a good visual), you drain might be like this one, but not sure yet how to attach a new pipe to the old drain hole

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaB-WIjzBbs


some website with photos and stuff

https://www.doityourself.com/forum/p...connected.html

http://www.virm.net/basement-floor-d...-floor-drains/

http://www.virm.net/basement-floor-d...rains-diagram/

Yes i think you are correct, that was likely an old floor drain and someone took off the grate cover (which attaches by two screws to the tabs your mentioned), and then just stuff the washer drain pipe down the drain hole.

Maybe a home made thing, i am guessing.

One hopes that one could get an adapter to either the top of the drain (when the old cover would go) or the hole at the bottom of the drain.

Maybe something that could be sealed to the top . .

I will take a few more moments and see if i can find anything :)

It's not home made, this is how the house was built. The drain is there specifically for the washing machine and connects under the slab to a floor drain about six feet away.

Thanks for looking, I appreciate it.

I looked at a few videos about replacing a floor drain, looks like a job for someone with the tools and experience. Might not even have to replace the drain; again I don't have the knowledge of how to fix this thing.

Yeah, I've thought of doing this as a stop gap, getting a wash basin and running it to the floor drain about five feet away. Don't like the idea at all.

Very good friends of mine run this company in Belton. They cover the entire KC Metro. Good people, honest.
https://www.morganmillerplumbing.com/

Its a floor drain..the trap may be clogged...i'd cut the pipe off about 4" from the floor drain and pour some draino in it and hopefully it will clear the trap..if it's clear just run a hose from the washer to the drain. . If it doesn't drain a small section of the floor can be taken out and the drain can be replaced....

Okay, lets hope it is an easy fix. I did do a little more looking.

You are very welcome.

The first I found what was basically check values to prevent the water/insects/odors backing up in the basement if the underground trap does not do it its job.

here is one.

https://kofflersales.com/p/green-dra...xoCJaYQAvD_BwE.

But you might be able to get away with something i found called a standpipe. Which basically goes into the old drain and is sealed inside the drain pipe.

Here are a few links. The rubber collar is placed inside the drain pipe and the screws are screwed and compresses the collar causing the rubber to explain and create the seal. Then one will just attach a threaded pipe to the collar.

http://old.drainbrain.com/specialties/floodguard.html

top of page 5 of this PDF

http://www.nridgeville.org/Downloads...event%20It.pdf

as these go inside pipes they will be smaller and may cause a choke point, but maybe not.


Hopefully the person you talk with will have an answer. Good luck.

Cheers.

EDIT: hopefully it is just clogged and you can still use the existing for the time being.

Bob Hamilton Plumbing, Heating and A/C......

AVOID AT ALL COSTS. Way overpriced.

This is pvc yours will be galv steel but same design. feel in the pan for a cleanout plug. If it there remove and feed hose there. It may be removed and you can snake the line then just feed extension hose to plug cleanout.

https://cdn2.tmbi.com/TFH/Step-By-St..._MODDRA_01.JPG

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...rqhZJ-RseLB9&s

https://www.familyhandyman.com/wp-co...35002place.jpg

I doubt there is a back flow ball with the older houses.

Bob Hamilton Plumbing....
Made me kill my family....EVERBODY SING!!!

I have heard lots of bad things about bob hamilton plumbing. I dont know where you live but if it Northland KC I can recommend McGuire Plumbing or Greens Rod O Matic. I have used both and think highly. Kevin Green I grew up with his son is running the show now does good work. He does a lot of commercial also so that why I also mentioned McGuire if he is backlogged.

There used to be a few plumbers on CP maybe they will chime in. I think Floridachief is if memory serves.

Remember the 913

I’ve been known to lay some serious pipe.

Thanks! I'll give them a call. I'm pretty sure the drain itself is cast iron. There is one by the washing machine and another between the garage bays.

Belton is fine with me, just don't recommend anyone from Grandview...

I'd probably need a new hip if I tried that...

Yeah, this is probably what's going to happen. I'm going to try to remove the standpipe (which is rusted away at the bottom) and see if I can clean up the threads enough to get a PVC threaded fitting in there and then add a three foot PVC standpipe for the washing machine.

It has a clean out plug so it might come out with a big enough pipe wrench.

It's had multiple bottles of various drain cleaners and an auger attempted to be run through it. It takes an abrupt turn so drain auger down the main pipe was a struggle.

That ****ing Bob Hamilton commercial plays on 810 over 1000x's during the Program with Soren Petro.

I thought I was going to personally fly to KC to kill that guy one day. It's the only commercial that runs along with gravely voiced gangster Garozzo's and their ****ing Chicken Spiedini!

Use unicorn pipe for repair.

It's hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like your drain piping may just be shoved down the floor drain (not screwed in). If so, take a Sawzall and cut the pipe above the corroded area and it should come out. If it is screwed in, the only way to get it out without busting up the floor is to cut the pipe above the corroded area, break off what you can, take the sawzall and make some relief cuts and peel it out of the drain. Pipewrenches are useless on 50 year old corroded galvanized pipe.
Next, you'll want to make sure the floor drain isn't clogged by running some water through it. If it is, rod the line out. You can rent the machine at home depot. While you're there, buy a 2' piece of pvc and a fernco the size of your existing washer drain, should be 2", but could be 1 1/2". Once you're sure the floor drain is clear, cut the pvc to length and install using the Fernco.

Profit!

Thanks! I looked up Fernco, looks to be a rubber fitting for joining dissimilar pipes. Not sure what I would use it for. Yeah, I'm hopeful that the pipe comes out with not much trouble. I can move it by hand however I've been resisting the urge to just break it off. Probably can't help it at this point. The sawsall is a good idea, I was thinking of trying a chisel however cast iron is pretty brittle and my intent is to NOT break the existing drain.

The standpipe is 2 1/2" OD, 2" ID. At least it's a standard size I can get in PVC. Once I get the old pipe out and the drain cleared, what should I use to cement the PVC into the cast iron? Epoxy? Mount a strap on the wall for support?

Check fetzer valve.

The Fernco is so you can extend the drain pipe so it'll reach the floor drain. If you don't, every time you run the washer, you'll have water all over the floor. If you plan on replacing the washer drain pipe with pvc, disregard what I just said

I would just make sure the pipe is in the floor drain and secure it to the wall with straps. There's a p-trap on the floor drain so no sewer gas issues. If it backs up again in the future, you'll want easy access, so no concrete/epoxy etc.

It’s all ball bearings.

I need a decent plumber for future repair problems, right now I'm having a plumber that mainly installs dish washers from Menards do my basic plumbing fixes. But i don't have much confidence in him to be honest, even he said he just works on installs mostly.

Frank Clark may be becoming a plumber soon....cannot vouche for reliability though....

They're fresh out. It's right next to the unobtainium pipe...

So did you get that POS pipe out and the washer draining again?

I don't think POS is a strong enough word. I think it's leaded in. I tried to get the clean out plug and ended up tearing the head off the brass plug. I've got the plug pretty much destroyed and it won't budge. The drain is right next to the basement wall so I have limited access.

I'm tempted to use heat to see if I can get the plug out. If I can do that, I might just put an threaded adapter in and a 45 degree to get it to vertical.

:banghead::banghead::mad::mad::banghead::banghead:

Hoping someone has posted some new pictures in the boob thread... I need something to cheer me up.:sulk:

Precision plumbing, I've had good luck with them. They have a fleet of plain white trucks and are good with older homes. A bunch of experienced plumbers on staff that like to do more jobs rather then overcharge. They handle a lot of the sewer/ water line warranty shit for kcmo.

A few more beers and I'll have this thing solved...

Just be aware that could be methane gas pockets trapped in that drain line.

I'm just not good at plumbing I've tried to fix things myself and had to call the plumber to fix my failure. If I have to spend some cash on them then I guess that's the way it's going to be.

Yes, sewer gas was one of my concerns... The runs in an older house usually are horizontal. Not a lot of worry about accumulated methane. Especially from a non organic grey water feed.

I have destroyed 4 metal cutting blades...

The brass clean out is a real PITA... I mean, it should come out fairly easily? I mean, it's only 55 years old.

Well, it's out... I didn't think I did much with the sawzall blades as they all went dull on me. I think that was from cutting into the cast iron. The threads have some cuts in them however some pipe dope should take care of it. Wire brush and the 2" male threads into it. Just need to get the 1 1/2" brass clean out remnants and I should be good to put the new PVC in. I do need to dry out the trap and vacuum the metal that fell in. Maybe a magnet? Got a metal strap and concrete anchors to hold the PVC vertical.

Thanks for the ideas and inspiration...

Good news. Stuff like this is so frustrating but rewarding with money left in the pocket at the end of the day.