brake line fitting
 

Busted the line at the fitting on the rear passenger side today. I can't get the fitting off, it seems really soft on both ends. Box wrench and socket wanted to round the edges with the slightest amount of torque. Special tool of tricks?

Orielly didn't know the diameter of.the line either. My chiltons didn't have specs that I seen. I assumed its 3/16.

93 f 250

what kind of ball bearings does it take?

Have you tried heating the fitting with a torch?

Not yet since I can't break it loose from the split either.

Hit it with a wire brush, soak with PB blaster, let it sit for 30 min, wipe it clean and try again. If not, Vice grips, drill, and tap & die set may be your only option here

http://s.shld.net/is/image/Sears/spi...&resMode=sharp

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00935359000P

Check the fetzer valve.

Vice grips
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not going to work.too big.

Thought you were linking to thosesquare drive sockets.

Wife bought me a set and they work great
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i'm assuming this is drum brake and the line is alloy. I'd use reg pliers and I know it'll get buggered up, but I doubt you have a choice. If it comes off, great -- you can likely get it back together with pliers and it doesn't take a lot of torque to cinch those.

But, if not...

If you can replace the line at the coupling easy enough, just cut it and crimp the end shut so a minimal amount of fluid is lost. you're gonna need to bleed that thoroughly after you're finished, either way. you'll need a new slave unit, they are cheap enough.

Can I just splice the line and bypass having to **** with the coupling?

I don't know of any way to do this. The flair fitting is done by machine and it has to be precise.

There is a wrench just for brake line fittings so the edges won't strip. Ask auto parts store

I use these in plumbing, but I don't see why it wouldn't work here