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12-02-2016, 10:05 PM | #2 |
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For the washer pump, if you can get to the leads at the pump itself, a simple meter should indicate if it's receiving a voltage upon application. If it is and the motor is definitely not operating at all, then you need a replacement. But if there is a voltage, it's more likely is that the motor is operating and you're not maintaining a vacuum seal for the pumping action. Obviously if you're not getting a voltage at the motor on application, you have a wiring break or a switch malfunction to track down.
The grounding issue is a lot thornier and will probably need someone at least local enough to get eyes on, regardless of general knowledge. About the only thing you can feasibly tackle yourself is a visual inspection of as much of the wiring as you can reasonably access, obviously starting at the battery. Look for bad connections, loose wirings, chafing, stripped insulation, pinches, and the like. It could be as simple as bad grounding at the terminals, easily enough remedied, but no way to promise without eyes-on. |
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12-02-2016, 10:11 PM | #3 |
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If I were you I'd get a real job where you can afford to pay a real proffesional to fix your shit !
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12-02-2016, 10:13 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
as for the taurus, he just replaced the battery, starter, alternator and plugs and wires on the car, but he still has that same intermittent problem.... i was hoping to catch some car enthusiast around here who might take a look at them... appreciate your response though, thanks... |
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12-02-2016, 10:15 PM | #5 |
Flop = Man of Steel!!
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12-02-2016, 10:20 PM | #6 |
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It's pretty clear that you need someone on site to Dx your grounding problem, but the washer motor you can take in segments. Somewhere between the actuator in on the stick in the car and the motor itself, there should be a voltage drop. Somewhere before the voltage drop ceases to register is where there is a wiring break. If you trace all the way back to the actuator [or you can even start there], the actuator/switch is probably your problem.
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12-02-2016, 11:20 PM | #7 | |
Flop = Man of Steel!!
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Quote:
i don't have a meter and wouldn't know which end to blow into... (there's a dirty joke in there somewhere...) but maybe i can find someone with a meter who does know which end to blow into... i'm hoping someone will notice this thread and come to my rescue! well, rescue may be overstating it just a bit... |
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12-02-2016, 11:43 PM | #8 |
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50 an hour is cheap as shit for that lol. That's 95 an hour at my shop
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12-02-2016, 11:47 PM | #9 |
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12-02-2016, 11:51 PM | #10 |
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12-03-2016, 12:32 AM | #11 |
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Get a 10 gauge wire and run it from the negative battery terminal to a chassis ground, if it stops the finicky lights you found your problem and attach it permanently.
As for the washer pump, visually checking a fuse will not always tell you it is blown. Try swapping it out, they're like 50 cents. If that doesn't work get a multimeter for 10 bucks at harbor freight and check if there is power at the fuse. If there is, then it is mpre than likely a bad pump, or a broken connector. Those connectors tend to deteriorate over time because they are usually in a wheel well someplace getting shit kicked at them all the time. Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk |
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12-03-2016, 08:32 AM | #12 |
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Check the washer relay. Pretty sure it has one.
On the other one just pay to get it looked at. Law school should help here |
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12-03-2016, 09:25 AM | #13 |
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There's a couple of good mom & pop auto electrical shops in Independence. If you call Jones Auto Service on Truman Rd and ask for Alan, he can recommend one. Alan is my mechanic. They don't do auto electrical there, so he'll be happy to point you.
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12-03-2016, 12:32 PM | #14 |
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Top 10 things on what makes Alan your mechanic?
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12-03-2016, 03:28 PM | #15 |
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Whatever you do don't go to Raytown. I am not talking about for your car. I am just saying in general don't go there.
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