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#16 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: kcmo
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go back to the parts store and tell the guy to look up a gasket for the thermostat housing
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#17 |
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this is a generic diagram, but item #2 is the gasket. also be sure the surfaces are still clean ( they look good in your pic) apply a thin even coat of copper gasket compound to both sides of it (below)
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#18 |
Shit
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Makes no sense it seals with one housing and not the other.
Are you sure you didn't crack the new one when installing? Posted via Mobile Device |
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#19 |
Spiraling down the Drain
Join Date: Oct 2012
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Be sure to check the fetzer valve.
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#20 |
I didn’t say mud, I said crud.
Join Date: Jan 2012
Casino cash: $-1371974
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No, the new thermostat housing is in installed in my car. It leak with it on, so took it off and just installed the the body. No leaks. My old one is in the trash.
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#21 |
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dude, it has to have a gasket.
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#22 |
Shit
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#23 |
I didn’t say mud, I said crud.
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#24 |
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okay so no gasket needed, but this video shows the oring gets a gasket sealer applied to it
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#25 |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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Flip her over Henry.
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#26 |
Shit
Join Date: Jun 2008
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o rings are supposed to be installed with no sealer. In fact I use very little silicone.
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#27 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: kcmo
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agreed, but I normally see oring seals in oil related apps, like distributor housings etc. couldn't hurt to put the sealant on there, follow the directions and it should hold.
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#28 |
I didn’t say mud, I said crud.
Join Date: Jan 2012
Casino cash: $-1371974
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I just don't know why it would leak from the housing with the new thermostat and then not leak with the thermostat out. It's spewing out and both nuts were tight.
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#29 |
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there is a lil guide ridge in the housing -- without the thermostat in there, that ridge does not bottom out inside as you crank it tight. with the thermostat in, now it bottoms out inside and you can't completely cinch it down.
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#30 |
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BTW- where you are, the climate is mild during winter -- you don't need a thermostat, really.
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