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08-25-2009, 10:45 AM | #16 |
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Yep its the defrost thermostat or your defrost tube is blocked and can't get rid of the water ..
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08-25-2009, 10:52 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
The tube that gets rid of the water that melts off the coils? When I defrosted it manually last time it seemed to drain out just fine, but I put a towel over the drain since there was so much frost, as I didn't want whatever it was draining into to overflow and mess up my hardwood floors. When you say defrost thermostat, do you mean the adaptive defrost board? Or the switch I've read about that is with the coils that kicks off the defroster once it has warmed up in there? I've read that those can break and stuck the switch open so that even when it goes into defrost mode the defrost never happens. I am leaning toward the board, because I haven't heard the compressor kick off like it would in the defrost cycle. I've read online that Amana is supposed to have a defrost test, I've seen one that said to press the light button 5 times in 6 seconds, and another to open/close one of the doors 4 times in 5 seconds, but I've tried both of these and the defrost cycle didn't seem to start. |
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08-25-2009, 03:09 PM | #18 | |
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08-25-2009, 04:08 PM | #19 |
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No clicking at all, but the compressor hadn't shut off today until I unplugged the whole thing. It is manually defrosted now and everything is back in and it is cooling everything back down. I'll turn the temp control way down (or up I guess really) to make it kick off later and see if I can tell any clicking.
One thing I did notice when I thawed it out is the defrost delimiter definately looks like what was described online when it has been frozen...it looks like the top was partly pried off, so I am pretty sure that is a problem, but I'm not sure it is the only problem yet...and worse off, I couldn't tell how the hell the thing would be replaced once I get a new one. There are two wires coming from it, one goes to a plug with another wire, and the second wire is part of a bundle that goes up into the top of the freezer and into the side-wall. |
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08-25-2009, 08:30 PM | #20 |
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If the defrost thermostat looks like the top has poped it is the problem. Just splice the wires to the new t stat with wire nuts and seal with rtv or silicone
Last edited by GESteve; 11-24-2010 at 11:42 PM.. |
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08-25-2009, 08:31 PM | #21 |
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Obama says it's the new clunker just trade it in
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08-25-2009, 08:34 PM | #22 |
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Also if the defrost board is bad you can actually replace it with a defrost timer. Same plug. just make sure you wire it to run in cumulative run or it will freeze up again
Last edited by GESteve; 11-24-2010 at 11:43 PM.. |
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08-26-2009, 05:29 AM | #23 |
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You should have just gone Frazod on it.
You have a gun, right?
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08-26-2009, 06:37 AM | #24 | |
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Quote:
If it pretty obvious how to wire it to run cumulative? I haven't seen much on that yet. |
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