Help With a Front Wheel Issue

[Delano]

My long commute dictated a new daily driver so I picked up a 2000 Hyundai Accent for $300. I fixed several minor problems with the thing but recently a front wheel issue has popped up.

Whenever I'm driving it makes a loud humming noise from the front wheels. Inside edge of the front tires are starting to wear unevenly. I did a full rotation but the problem continued.

If I turn right the noise stops but a left turn makes it slightly worse.

The car drifts right very slightly when at highway speed.

Bearing? Simple fix?

Thanks fellas.

[Radar Chief]

Originally Posted by Delano

Very good. Based on the noise disappearing when I turn right, can I assume it is one side or the other?
Posted via Mobile Device

If you’re going to replace a bearing it would be in your best interest to replace them all.
They’ll all, presumably, have the same miles and wear so if one is gone the others won’t be far behind.

[Delano]

Originally Posted by Radar Chief

If you’re going to replace a bearing it would be in your best interest to replace them all.
They’ll all, presumably, have the same miles and wear so if one is gone the others won’t be far behind.

That makes sense. Good idea.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Buehler445]

Originally Posted by Delano

Well I think I ruled out the tires by doing the rotation. Still noise from the front.
Posted via Mobile Device

Sometimes the tread just makes noise, but I doubt this is your problem. There was a stretch of road between Emporia and KC that made the tires on the car I had at the time just absolutely scream. The first time I drove on the road with those tires I stopped and looked over my car because I thought it was going to assplode or something. The road changed and it quit.

It's probably the bearing like these guys have said. While you're under there, take a good look at the CV joint boots (I assume it is front wheel drive). Those used to be one of the quickest things to wear. They are (used to be, haven't changed one in several years) a bitch to replace, but since you're going to tear the hub assembly apart anyway, it may be worth doing if they're bad.

Originally Posted by Radar Chief

If you’re going to replace a bearing it would be in your best interest to replace them all.
They’ll all, presumably, have the same miles and wear so if one is gone the others won’t be far behind.

This is good advice.

[Baby Lee]

Originally Posted by Radar Chief

If you’re going to replace a bearing it would be in your best interest to replace them all.
They’ll all, presumably, have the same miles and wear so if one is gone the others won’t be far behind.

Don't know if that's always the case. By rear one's 'failed' [actually, they didn't pass inspection tolerances, no noise or clumping prior] first. The driver's front lasted over a 18 mos longer. The passenger front is in it's third year post replacing the rears, and passed another inspection last spring.

It's not an expensive proposition to replace all 4, but could prove physically wearying if attacked all at once, especially if your cheater bar isn't long enough to give you mondo torque.

[JD10367]

Slackers.

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=6

[Buehler445]

Originally Posted by Baby Lee

Don't know if that's always the case. By rear one's 'failed' [actually, they didn't pass inspection tolerances, no noise or clumping prior] first. The driver's front lasted over a 18 mos longer. The passenger front is in it's third year post replacing the rears, and passed another inspection last spring.

It's not an expensive proposition to replace all 4, but could prove physically wearying if attacked all at once, especially if your cheater bar isn't long enough to give you mondo torque.

Cheaters are easy to come by.

[ToxSocks]

Has anyone said bearing yet? They're actually called ball joints and that's probably your problem.

Also check your CV Axles. If it is a Ball joint then you need to get that shit fixed right away. If it decides to fail while you're driving you're going to be in a heap of shit.

[ToxSocks]

Originally Posted by Radar Chief

If you’re going to replace a bearing it would be in your best interest to replace them all.
They’ll all, presumably, have the same miles and wear so if one is gone the others won’t be far behind.

This. The rest are on their way. It's a cheap fix if you can do it yourself.

[Simply Red]

Bearing, if it wasn't already established. Did it honk too, when you turned? nyuck nyuck...

[Simply Red]

Originally Posted by Delano

Thanks.

Found this repair manual:

Hyundaiforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6891
Posted via Mobile Device

Pale nimbus?

[bevischief]

Blinker bearings.

[Delano]

I jacked that bitch up and there is some play on the driver front.

Service manual suggests removing the entire knuckle and hub assembly. Ugh - strut, tirod, lower ball joint all removed for the press.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Wyndex]

jack your car up without loosening your wheel

put your hands 10 and 2, push/pull and push/pull, is there any play? tie rod assembly more than likely

put your hands 12 and 6, push/pull and push/pull, is there any play? there should be and that's your lower ball joint

you can rule CV out because you would hear a click when you turn your wheel


edit:
where is the play, 10 and 2 or 12 and 6?

don't worry about tie rod unless it's 10 and 2

if it is 10 and 2, look at your steering wheel as you push/pull, you want the wheel to move simultaneously when your push/pull...there shouldn't be a delay

[Delano]

Originally Posted by Wyndex

jack your car up without loosening your wheel

put your hands 10 and 2, push/pull and push/pull, is there any play? tie rod assembly more than likely

put your hands 12 and 6, push/pull and push/pull, is there any play? there should be and that's your lower ball joint

you can rule CV out because you would hear a click when you turn your wheel


edit:
where is the play, 10 and 2 or 12 and 6?

don't worry about tie rod unless it's 10 and 2

if it is 10 and 2, look at your steering wheel as you push/pull, you want the wheel to move simultaneously when your push/pull...there shouldn't be a delay

Rocked it at 12 and 6. Seems like an 1/4 inch wobble.
Posted via Mobile Device

[SAUTO]

Originally Posted by Delano

Rocked it at 12 and 6. Seems like an 1/4 inch wobble.
Posted via Mobile Device

most likely your culprit.

not an assembly on your car IIRC, has to be pressed. you should have someone press it for you unless you have access to the right tools. you dont want to just beat it in with an old socket


make SURE the axle is torqued properly or you will be doing it again.

and bearings are tough to diagnose which one is bad by sound. have to kinda just know just from experience and i have had to pull both and swap em before. not often but once in awhile .
Posted via Mobile Device