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Old 01-19-2014, 11:22 AM  
'Hamas' Jenkins 'Hamas' Jenkins is offline
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God **** You, Biostar

Cocksucking motherboard was DOA, and now, thanks to NewEgg's cockamamie return policy, I have to wait almost two ****ing weeks to get a replacement and pay return shipping for a product that was as useful as a sack of rat shit.

Check that; I could have at least sent the sack of rat shit to Biostar hoping that there were live plague bacteria in it.

Thank you, NewEgg, for a truly Piolian experience.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:38 AM   #46
htismaqe htismaqe is offline
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Originally Posted by hometeam View Post
Just been poking around, and the thought crossed my mind last night, its possible the mobo is contacting the case, even though I have all the standoffs installed.

I am going to pull it OUT of the case tonight and assemble it outside the case (should have done that first but skipped it to save on time)

then see if it powers on. If it does not, then when the new PSU arrives I will try that before RMA
Yeah, it's always possible. I've had it happen before although in my experience, it will power on sometimes and then die versus just never powering on at all.
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Old 02-07-2014, 11:01 AM   #47
hometeam hometeam is offline
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Originally Posted by htismaqe View Post
Yeah, it's always possible. I've had it happen before although in my experience, it will power on sometimes and then die versus just never powering on at all.
I knew I was testing my limits with all of these builds and NEVER having to RMA.

Finally I rebuild a PC for myself and I get a possible RMA.

I have never had a board do NOTHING no fan, nothing. PSU is still good in that I had powered my oced q6600 and 6870 build for two years or better, and I bet if I hook it back up it fires right up.

I never took the CPU back out of the socket to check for bent pins or anything. I guess ill have to get to all this crap tonight since it was so late when I started last night
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Old 02-07-2014, 11:14 AM   #48
htismaqe htismaqe is offline
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Originally Posted by hometeam View Post
I knew I was testing my limits with all of these builds and NEVER having to RMA.

Finally I rebuild a PC for myself and I get a possible RMA.

I have never had a board do NOTHING no fan, nothing. PSU is still good in that I had powered my oced q6600 and 6870 build for two years or better, and I bet if I hook it back up it fires right up.

I never took the CPU back out of the socket to check for bent pins or anything. I guess ill have to get to all this crap tonight since it was so late when I started last night
It is possible it's the connector too. The whole +2 thing can be an issue.
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Old 02-07-2014, 11:30 AM   #49
TheUte TheUte is offline
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What motherboard is it? I just built a new MSI and the pins on the board where labled incorrectly/oddly. Once I got the power switch correctly it worked.

I know stupid, just a thought.
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Old 02-07-2014, 11:40 AM   #50
htismaqe htismaqe is offline
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Originally Posted by TheUte View Post
What motherboard is it? I just built a new MSI and the pins on the board where labled incorrectly/oddly. Once I got the power switch correctly it worked.

I know stupid, just a thought.
Damn, I'm stupid!

I had an MSI once that the jumpers for the HDD indicator, power switch, reset switch, etc. were all labeled backwards.

That could very well be the issue.
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:12 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by TheUte View Post
What motherboard is it? I just built a new MSI and the pins on the board where labled incorrectly/oddly. Once I got the power switch correctly it worked.

I know stupid, just a thought.
Its the msi 970a-g43.

As far as the motherboard jumpers being labeled incorrectly I don't think that is it, because I tried to power it on by touching my screwdriver to the pins on the power switch, the reset switch etc. Tried it both ways too.

Right now im leaning towards the power supply. Its an old chiefmax cheapy power supply and only has that 6+2 12v connector, and im not certain that its providing the right amount of power etc.

I have a corsair cx 500 coming in the mail (30 bucks after MIR :X) should be here Tuesday.
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:21 PM   #52
TheUte TheUte is offline
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So if all the connectors are connected to the M/B, what are you shorting with the screw driver?
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:29 PM   #53
hometeam hometeam is offline
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Originally Posted by TheUte View Post
So if all the connectors are connected to the M/B, what are you shorting with the screw driver?
I am shorting the power + - pins for the front panel .

You can always test to see if your no power situation is caused by a faulty or wrongly wired power/reset switch from the case by jumping the + - on the pwr portion of the front panel header.

This takes that power button/wiring that comes from the case out of the equation because you are telling it the power button has been switched by touching your screwdriver to it.

TBH after I got it all mounted up I only played with it for 15-20 mins before hitting the sack last night. I am going to dive in to it tonight and see if I cant get it going. Already ordered the new PSU and a better case, along with a new DVD RW drive since I forgot my old one was IDE and this mobo has no IDE support.

Last edited by hometeam; 02-07-2014 at 12:35 PM..
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:34 PM   #54
htismaqe htismaqe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hometeam View Post
I am shorting the power + - pins for the front panel .

You can always test to see if your no power situation is caused by a faulty or wrongly wired power/reset switch from the case by jumping the + - on the pwr portion of the front panel header.

This takes that power button/wiring that comes from the case out of the equation because you are telling it the power button has been switched by touching your screwdriver to it.
True.

It's gotta be the PSU.
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:43 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hometeam View Post
I am shorting the power + - pins for the front panel .

You can always test to see if your no power situation is caused by a faulty or wrongly wired power/reset switch from the case by jumping the + - on the pwr portion of the front panel header.

This takes that power button/wiring that comes from the case out of the equation because you are telling it the power button has been switched by touching your screwdriver to it.
So if you are shorting the pins on the case how does that tell you that the Power button is connected incorrectly?

The power button has to be connected properly not matter what, I can see how the would tell you if the button itself was incorrect.
It seems like you are just bypassing the switch.

I'm not trying to be difficult, I just think that you would be wise to look at the Power Switch on the M/B.
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:01 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by TheUte View Post
So if you are shorting the pins on the case how does that tell you that the Power button is connected incorrectly?

The power button has to be connected properly not matter what, I can see how the would tell you if the button itself was incorrect.
It seems like you are just bypassing the switch.

I'm not trying to be difficult, I just think that you would be wise to look at the Power Switch on the M/B.
Im not shorting pins on the case.. Im shorting the pins on the motherboard header. The + - pins on the MOBO itself is what you jump together to give it the power on signal. Its an old tried and true trick to troubleshoot motherboards not powering on properly and it takes the power button/wiring out of the equation.

Not to mention, I have tried every combination of hookups from the case power button to the mobo.

Quote:


Read the manual that came with the motherboard to locate the relevant connector and pins for the board's power switch. Two pins are used for the switch connection and these are normally labeled "POWER SW" or similar.

2


Connect the two motherboard power switch pins together briefly, using a screwdriver or similar conductive metal tool. This provides the signal to the motherboard to switch on. The pins are all low voltage (five volts or less), so there is no risk of an electric shock.


3


Turn off the motherboard by connecting the power switch pins together again and leaving them connected until the motherboard shuts down. This mimics holding the computer's power switch in and signals to the board to turn off.

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Old 02-07-2014, 01:53 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by hometeam View Post
Im not shorting pins on the case.. Im shorting the pins on the motherboard header. The + - pins on the MOBO itself is what you jump together to give it the power on signal. Its an old tried and true trick to troubleshoot motherboards not powering on properly and it takes the power button/wiring out of the equation.

Not to mention, I have tried every combination of hookups from the case power button to the mobo.
Got ya. Sometimes it sucks being an ADD kid.
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:22 PM   #58
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Amazon has pretty much ruined all other online retailers for me. When FedEx ****ed up and couldn't get one of the Christmas gifts I ordered to me on time, Amazon refunded the order entirely and re-ordered the item to be sent directly to the person I was giving it to without blinking.

I really don't understand why other retailers don't do everything they can to keep customers happy - especially when it doesn't cost them much. (They have our CC info after all and can always charge us if the return doesn't go through right.)
Yeah Amazon rocks. This past Christmas Amazon sent me a comlpetely unrelated item to me in place of the one I ordered. I provided them feedback on said order and they emailed me quite quickly saying I didn't have to return the wrong item and they were 2 day shipping me the correct item with no inconvenience to me. It almost makes me want to spend $75 on Amazon Prime. Almost.
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:23 PM   #59
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Yeah Amazon rocks. This past Christmas Amazon sent me a comlpetely unrelated item to me in place of the one I ordered. I provided them feedback on said order and they emailed me quite quickly saying I didn't have to return the wrong item and they were 2 day shipping me the correct item with no inconvenience to me. It almost makes me want to spend $75 on Amazon Prime. Almost.
Just be warned about prime: your spending at Amazon will likely at least double.
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:29 PM   #60
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Have you tested the 5Ghz network with anything other than torrents?

5Ghz doesn't always handle things well. Can be very fast but is very intolerant of fidelity issues.
With most phones cordless how is the interference?
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