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Old 11-20-2013, 07:02 PM  
BigRichard BigRichard is offline
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Question for the car guys

I just bought an older truck to have for winter but I went to start it this morning and the battery was dead. Took the battery up to Autozone and they said it checked out fine but it was completely drained when I brought it in. I did not have the alternator tested yet but the dash gauge shows it is charging good. What else could it be or should I not trust the gauge on the truck? Could something be sucking the juice from the battery as it sits? If so how do I find it?
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:53 AM   #16
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It does sound like you've got something draining the juice while she sits.

Can you get me the year and make of the vehicle? I may be able to tell you the most likely suspect.
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:52 AM   #17
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How old is the pickup?

How old is the battery? If the battery is over 4 years old I'd replace it anyway. If you want it for winter, you need it to crank hard.

Probably a power drain somewhere. If there is an aftermarket radio, it could potentially be hooked to constant power instead of keyed power. Some of the mid 90s Chevy's had a light under the hood come on when you opened the hood, that or the glovebox could be the problem. If not, I'd check the fuses like hometeam said.
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:00 AM   #18
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its something with the wiring. what you got, 320, 321?
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:03 AM   #19
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:15 AM   #20
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The test light suggestion is great, as well as the meter to find the problem.

Also, a real quick indicator on an older vehicle, if you touch the battery cable to the battery post with every thing turned off, you shouldn't get a spark. If you do, something is pulling juice.
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:47 AM   #21
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Don't want to create a separate thread, so I'm piggybacking off of this one...

Is it very difficult to change brake pads? I need to replace mine and was thinking of doing it myself. Any specific "fancy" tools I would need? Or is it a fairly simple process?

I have a Honda Ridgeline, so you experts know what you're working with
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:49 AM   #22
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Simple. It took me longer to jack up my car and take the wheels off than it did to actually replace the pads.
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:53 AM   #23
BigRichard BigRichard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gonzo View Post
It does sound like you've got something draining the juice while she sits.

Can you get me the year and make of the vehicle? I may be able to tell you the most likely suspect.
It's a 92 GMC 1500. It does have an after market stereo so I was gonna start there. Then I was gonna maybe look at the wiring for the hitch.
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:00 PM   #24
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It's a 92 GMC 1500. It does have an after market stereo so I was gonna start there. Then I was gonna maybe look at the wiring for the hitch.
check the radio, glove box light (the switch like to fall out of its holder on those things) and the underhood light.

the trailer wiring shouldn't be it unless its wired for a powered trailer. like an rv. something that needs power


trailer lights only work if the vehicle lights are being used.
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:01 PM   #25
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get a test light and go to town on the thing.

also check the battery terminals.

if all else fails grab a BFH(big ****ing hammer)
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:56 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockChalk View Post
Don't want to create a separate thread, so I'm piggybacking off of this one...

Is it very difficult to change brake pads? I need to replace mine and was thinking of doing it myself. Any specific "fancy" tools I would need? Or is it a fairly simple process?

I have a Honda Ridgeline, so you experts know what you're working with
Discs all around I assume? Super simple, you can find directions specific to your vehicle on the internet, hell there’s probably video instructions YouTube.
To do the job right though you need to also remove the discs and have them “turned” by your local O’Reilly, Auto Zone or whatever parts house will turn brakes. That’s because you don’t want to put fresh pads on grooved up discs, your pads won’t last nearly as long and you’ll be doing this again wishing you had done it right the first time.
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:56 PM   #27
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Discs all around I assume? Super simple, you can find directions specific to your vehicle on the internet, hell there’s probably video instructions YouTube.
To do the job right though you need to also remove the discs and have them “turned” by your local O’Reilly, Auto Zone or whatever parts house will turn brakes. That’s because you don’t want to put fresh pads on grooved up discs, your pads won’t last nearly as long and you’ll be doing this again wishing you had done it right the first time.
and those ****ers will squeak forever if the rotors aren't turned
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Old 11-21-2013, 02:45 PM   #28
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It's a 92 GMC 1500. It does have an after market stereo so I was gonna start there. Then I was gonna maybe look at the wiring for the hitch.
Yep, check under the good for the stereo wire and a fused-link. Check with a multi-meter or a sensitive test light.

If that's good, start checking the fuse box, (after checking all the lights and switches).
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Old 11-21-2013, 03:15 PM   #29
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and those ****ers will squeak forever if the rotors aren't turned
This. I know first hand unfortunately.
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Old 11-21-2013, 03:45 PM   #30
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How long did the truck sit around with out being started? If it was several months, it's not uncommon for batteries to go flat. We use a CTEK charger unit if a car has to sit around the shop for awhile. Check out the CTEK MULTI US 7000.
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