Home and Auto Exposed Drywall Paper - Page 3

**DaneMcCloud** · 09-07-2012, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JASONSAUTO

Lol. I painted the whole interior of the house a couple years ago.
I absolutely hated every ****ing minute of it. Never thought about killing my self either before our after that but was contemplating it then. Lol( not really but you ger it)

When the addition was ready to paint I hired a guy who sucked, fired him and was going to tackle it and a car got towed in, the guy was broke I fixed it for him and we got to bullshitting around, lo and behold he was a painter. Trade out ftmfw
Posted via Mobile Device

Nice!

**Bugeater** · 09-07-2012, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JASONSAUTO

Lol. I painted the whole interior of the house a couple years ago.
I absolutely hated every ****ing minute of it. Never thought about killing my self either before our after that but was contemplating it then. Lol( not really but you ger it)

When the addition was ready to paint I hired a guy who sucked, fired him and was going to tackle it and a car got towed in, the guy was broke I fixed it for him and we got to bullshitting around, lo and behold he was a painter. Trade out ftmfw
Posted via Mobile Device

Yeah, and I'd think about killing myself if I ever tried rebuilding an engine with my Craftsman socket set. Pretty much any task can be frustrating if you don't know what you're doing and you don't have the right tools. There's only one brand of brush I will buy, and I only use lamb's wool rollers. Anything else will make you tear your hair out.

**SAUTO** · 09-07-2012, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugeater

Yeah, and I'd think about killing myself if I ever tried rebuilding an engine with my Craftsman socket set. Pretty much any task can be frustrating if you don't know what you're doing and you don't have the right tools. There's only one brand of brush I will buy, and I only use lamb's wool rollers. Anything else will make you tear your hair out.

I know. Lol.

Actually anything that had to do with wood butchering makes me feel the suicidal twinge...
Posted via Mobile Device

Groves · 09-08-2012, 05:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugeater

There's only one brand of brush I will buy, and I only use lamb's wool rollers. Anything else will make you tear your hair out.

Out with it, Bug.

Nice to see Over-head, too. You been working all night on custom jobs again? Cranky.

**cdcox** · 09-07-2012, 06:31 PM

Yeah, I used the Gardz stuff and it worked great. It seals better than a regular primer. Then you can mud over it and taper it perfectly in with the rest.

jspchief · 09-07-2012, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Over-Head

STILL the same ****en idiot "wanna be know it all" you'll always portrayed your self to be" Stick to General contracting and let the PROFESSIONALS answer this question Philamina

Hit it with a quick set powder mud like CGC sheetrock 90 or the USA equilivant, , level it with a coat of mud, then skim it wih a thin coat of mud . Lightly Sand in between coats by the way.

While Phil is "trying" to answer your question, he hasen';t a ****en clue.
Once the paper is exposed, there's really nothing you can do but build it up to surface level.
IF he ACTUALLY knew what he was talking about he would see from your pic, the gypsum ISNT expoced, even if it was, it wouldn't matter.

WHY??

Simple, today's "mud" products are calcium based, as opposed to "pre" 1960 Morter based plaster products, which would require a bonding agent, and multiple bonding coats
.
Prime, then cover it with a "wiz roller" of finish, second coat it with the same technique, then finish the whole wall.
depending on your choice of finish I'd recommend Benjamin Moore "Ben" series, or Aura.

IF you were to follow Philimeanas advice you'd be re-gyprocking the whole dam wall. But then general contractors rarley know what the **** is going on anyways

Any further questions feel free to ask me through email jeffchildsceilingmaster@gmail.com

Lol I don't have comment on this post other than the reference to quick set mud. A few years back I bought some shit to level out some damage from removing wallpaper. It set so god damn fast I couldn't get it from the bucket to the wall without it setting up. Crazy stuff.

Over-Head · 09-07-2012, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jspchief

It set so god damn fast I couldn't get it from the bucket to the wall without it setting up. Crazy stuff.

Thats why you hire a pro, who's used to working with it.
I use 20, 45, and 90min set up compounds buy the bag full every week.
A slow week for me is ONLY 15 OR 20 (30lb) bags

09-07-2012, 10:50 PM

Obviously, you're the expert and I'll defer to your expert opinion, Jeff. That picture wasn't from the OP. The general advice I gave is fine for a DIY homeowner albeit not nearly as good as yours. I still don't understand the venom but you're a grown man and I'm not gonna try to win your heart. Glad to see you're alive and kicking.

Silock · 09-07-2012, 11:52 PM

Wow, this thread sure got weird.

Anyway, I was concerned about the paper not being sealed because I tried to use some joint compound on one area, and the paper just seemed like it absorbed all the moisture and it took forever for the mud to dry (5+ hours, when the rest of it set and sanded in 20 minutes).

I was under the impression that that was a bad thing. Am I wrong? I honestly have no clue. Obviously, just going on with quick set instead of taking an extra sealing step seems like it would be far less work, as I'm going to have to sand and mud it a couple of times at least, anyway.

I'm just as confused now as when I started the thread . . .

**DaneMcCloud** · 09-07-2012, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silock

I'm just as confused now as when I started the thread . . .

Although I'm not a professional, I've spent literally hundreds of thousands of dollars remodeling my home.

FWIW, I'm pretty sure you're okay.

Silock · 09-07-2012, 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaneMcCloud

Although I'm not a professional, I've spent literally hundreds of thousands of dollars remodeling my home.

FWIW, I'm pretty sure you're okay.

!!

That's a lot of dollars. I've spent maybe 20 grand, and that's being generous and including a 3D projector lol

**DaneMcCloud** · 09-08-2012, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silock

!!

That's a lot of dollars. I've spent maybe 20 grand, and that's being generous and including a 3D projector lol

If you're really concerned about it (which I wouldn't be), cut that piece out, replace it with new drywall and be done with it.

Good luck!

Silock · 09-07-2012, 11:57 PM

Here's a couple of pics of what I'm concerned about.

09-07-2012, 11:58 PM

Dude - Overhead is a guy who has done this stuff professionally for decades. It's all he does. Yeah, he's going to have some techniques that work better for him. The average joe isn't going to want to play with speed mud. The technique I suggested for you is a novice-friendly method of dealing with your problem. As long as you have to shredded paper cleaned up to the best of your ability, it will work fine. I've done it.

Or you could just hire Jeff to fly down and fix it. He's incredibly talented with mud. Probably one of the best artisans in North America.

09-08-2012, 12:00 AM

Clean that paper up a little better with a utility knife blade before you seal it up.

09-07-2012, 06:31 PM	#5
cdcox www.nfl-forecast.com Join Date: Sep 2000 Casino cash: $2231769	Yeah, I used the Gardz stuff and it worked great. It seals better than a regular primer. Then you can mud over it and taper it perfectly in with the rest.
Posts: 45,543

09-07-2012, 10:50 PM	#8
Phobia Guest Casino cash: $	Obviously, you're the expert and I'll defer to your expert opinion, Jeff. That picture wasn't from the OP. The general advice I gave is fine for a DIY homeowner albeit not nearly as good as yours. I still don't understand the venom but you're a grown man and I'm not gonna try to win your heart. Glad to see you're alive and kicking.
Posts: n/a

09-07-2012, 11:52 PM	#9
Silock MVP Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Overland Park Casino cash: $10020882	Wow, this thread sure got weird. Anyway, I was concerned about the paper not being sealed because I tried to use some joint compound on one area, and the paper just seemed like it absorbed all the moisture and it took forever for the mud to dry (5+ hours, when the rest of it set and sanded in 20 minutes). I was under the impression that that was a bad thing. Am I wrong? I honestly have no clue. Obviously, just going on with quick set instead of taking an extra sealing step seems like it would be far less work, as I'm going to have to sand and mud it a couple of times at least, anyway. I'm just as confused now as when I started the thread . . .
Posts: 19,908

09-07-2012, 11:57 PM	#13
Silock MVP Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Overland Park Casino cash: $10020882	Here's a couple of pics of what I'm concerned about.
Posts: 19,908

09-07-2012, 11:58 PM	#14
Phobia Guest Casino cash: $	Dude - Overhead is a guy who has done this stuff professionally for decades. It's all he does. Yeah, he's going to have some techniques that work better for him. The average joe isn't going to want to play with speed mud. The technique I suggested for you is a novice-friendly method of dealing with your problem. As long as you have to shredded paper cleaned up to the best of your ability, it will work fine. I've done it. Or you could just hire Jeff to fly down and fix it. He's incredibly talented with mud. Probably one of the best artisans in North America.
Posts: n/a

09-08-2012, 12:00 AM	#15
Phobia Guest Casino cash: $	Clean that paper up a little better with a utility knife blade before you seal it up.
Posts: n/a