Who here works for a car dealership?

[Chiefs Pantalones]

I know there is some but I forget. I have a couple questions about trading in my car or selling it privately.

[007]

Originally Posted by Jiu Jitsu Jon

And if that's your situation, that may be fine. But my concern is for the people that have a car that is still worth something. With KBB values online for everyone to see, there's no reason to get bent over by the dealership on a trade-in.

ON that, we agree.

[ChiefsCountry]

Dealers don't use KBB they use NADA.

[007]

Originally Posted by ChiefsCountry

Dealers don't use KBB they use NADA.

probably because the values are a little lower in NADA

[Jiu Jitsu Jon]

Originally Posted by Guru

probably because the values are a little lower in NADA

Does it strike anyone else funny that dealer use a book called "NADA" to determine your trade-in "value"? For anyone that didn't take Spanish I in high school, the English translation of nada is nothing.

Do you know how to tell when a vendor, car dealer or district manager is lying? When they open their mouth.

[007]

Originally Posted by Jiu Jitsu Jon

Does it strike anyone else funny that dealer use a book called "NADA" to determine your trade-in "value"? For anyone that didn't take Spanish I in high school, the English translation of nada is nothing.

Do you know how to tell when a vendor, car dealer or district manager is lying? When they open their mouth.

[R8RFAN]

If you don't have atleast a million dollars you should be buying used

[New World Order]

Originally Posted by 3rd&48ers

If you don't have atleast a million dollars you should be buying used

Unless you have a dealer's license isn't it better to buy new? If you can get at least 15% off a new car it just seems like the better deal nowadays.

[007]

Originally Posted by 3rd&48ers

If you don't have atleast a million dollars you should be buying used

The thing I hate about buying used is eating someone elses mileage. I got lucky once and found a car with only 5000 miles on it in its first year and got a steal. Generally I get stuck with cars that have 50k miles on them and I ****ing hate that.

Of course, the one time, ONE TIME, I purchased new a ****ing cell phone user plowed into me and rolled it after 1 year of owning it. Now my wife is scared to death to buy new again. I loved knowing the only miles on that thing were mine (11k). Replaced it with a used car with 50k on it. ****ing horrible trade off.

[Dayze]

"INvoice" pricing is a way to grab people's attention.

offer them 2-4% over dealer "COST". which is Invoice, minus any FTD Incentives, hold-back $, and the like; then add your 2-4% to that as your offer.

New cars are EASY to negotiate because the value is known. I have bought 2 of my wifes cars over email within about 15 minutes and paid significantly less than "Invoice". Even when paying invoice, the dealer still makes a nice chunk of change.

used.....then you need to look at the MARKET value for your car. KBB is great an all, but if KBB says your car is worth $10k, but every car on the market is $8k.....you virtually never going to get a dealer to come up that high without taking it off the new price.

basically, when working a trade, just offer them what you want the net price to be after the pricing negotiations. otherwise they play a stupid shell game etc. If your new car is $20k, and you want $9500 for your car, tell them you want to be a 10.k net.

otherwise you're dealing with a numbers game back and forth. also, don't be a prick. the dealer has to make money. so don't go in there thinking you're going to just kick ass and take names. let them know you know they have to make money so that's why you're offering % over COST. and you want a fair price for your car.

If they know you're not a moron, chances are they'll get the sale done because it's so easy for both you and them. They'll move on to the next person who doesn't know what they want etc. The trick with this of course is knowing exactly what you want. Model, color, trim etc. (For NEW cars)

approaching your deal this way, lets them know where/how you're coming up with your numbers/offer and takes away any sort of word games etc. It's a simple way to show them how you came up with it. Cost + 2-4%. If they won't do it, then go somewhere else. They STILL make their FTD incentive, holdback, AND your 2-4% offer. so they're still making a shitload on that new car sale.

[ChiTown]

Originally Posted by 3rd&48ers

If you don't have atleast a million dollars you should be buying used

You and your financial advice are complete shit

[TEX]

Originally Posted by Dayze

"INvoice" pricing is a way to grab people's attention.

offer them 2-4% over dealer "COST". which is Invoice, minus any FTD Incentives, hold-back $, and the like; then add your 2-4% to that as your offer.

New cars are EASY to negotiate because the value is known. I have bought 2 of my wifes cars over email within about 15 minutes and paid significantly less than "Invoice". Even when paying invoice, the dealer still makes a nice chunk of change.

used.....then you need to look at the MARKET value for your car. KBB is great an all, but if KBB says your car is worth $10k, but every car on the market is $8k.....you virtually never going to get a dealer to come up that high without taking it off the new price.

basically, when working a trade, just offer them what you want the net price to be after the pricing negotiations. otherwise they play a stupid shell game etc. If your new car is $20k, and you want $9500 for your car, tell them you want to be a 10.k net.

otherwise you're dealing with a numbers game back and forth. also, don't be a prick. the dealer has to make money. so don't go in there thinking you're going to just kick ass and take names. let them know you know they have to make money so that's why you're offering % over COST. and you want a fair price for your car.

If they know you're not a moron, chances are they'll get the sale done because it's so easy for both you and them. They'll move on to the next person who doesn't know what they want etc. The trick with this of course is knowing exactly what you want. Model, color, trim etc. (For NEW cars)

approaching your deal this way, lets them know where/how you're coming up with your numbers/offer and takes away any sort of word games etc. It's a simple way to show them how you came up with it. Cost + 2-4%. If they won't do it, then go somewhere else. They STILL make their FTD incentive, holdback, AND your 2-4% offer. so they're still making a shitload on that new car sale.

Very well said. This is exactly how to do it.

[notorious]

I flew the biggest car dealership owner around years ago and he told me they make more money off of used cars then new. I think financing had a lot to do with it.

He was a very nice and cool guy, so I think he was being honest.

[notorious]

I make a pretty good living and still don't buy new cars.

There is something about paying 1k for tags to the state for a ****ing car that pisses me off.

I have always paid cash for a current-looking used vehicle with decent miles on it, drive it to 250k and sell it for cash to someone else.

It looks nice, taxes are cheap, and it does the same job as a $50,000 albatross.

[hometeam]

PM me. If I cant help you then no one can~

Ill even give you my phone number and we can make it easy with a short phone call.

[hometeam]

Originally Posted by Guru

probably because the values are a little lower in NADA

Wrong.

NADA values and KBB values can vary greatly up, down, or near each other depending on the vehicle.