Beginner welder?

[penguinz]

Wanting to pick up a starter welder in order to learn welding.

Any recommendations for a good welder to start with?

[ptlyon]

Originally Posted by LiveSteam

I've been welding since before high-school.
Some things to know.
AC welders are alternating current and if its a stick welder?
Its much harder to get the welding rod to start welding. The rods will want to grab the metal and stick.
DC welders are direct current and much easier for a beginner to run beads.
MIG stands for Micro Inert Gas. The gas is the flux or shielding agent.
Flux core wire feed welders can have the same problem as AC stick welders. They can be hard to start and if you don't have the proper feed rate set. Plan on doing a lot of grinding.
Flux core is more a cattle fence fixing type of welder. And a very weak weld.
TIG is for aluminium. Tungsten Inert Gas welder.
And can be very tricky to. As it way easier to blow a hole in aluminium VS steel..

Last but definitely not least. Penitration is the name of the game when welding steel. Practice practice practice.

Absolutely!

[DJ's left nut]

Originally Posted by Detoxing

Lincoln Electric is a great brand, as is Miller. Can't go wrong with either as both brands are pretty much industry standards.

We have a Lincoln Electric Plasma Cutter and Plasma Cutting Table in the shop. All of our MIG welders are Miller.

The one I've used is a big High Output Miller. I've been warned not to get spoiled.

Evidently those things can be converted to a plasma cutter? That's what my friend told me anyway. I've never seen it before but man it would be fun to give one of those a shot.

[LiveSteam]

Once you get really good with welding.
Then like my Pops. You can build your own hydrostatic bomb on wheels.
https://youtu.be/Oshtmfwh-vw

[Buehler445]

Originally Posted by penguinz

Just to do some work on the Jeep and future vehicles.

Preface: Buehler445 is a shit welder.

If I’m doing auto, particularly body, I’m getting a MIG. Guy that worked for us went to body school and that’s what they taught them on.

Plus it’s easier to put out a decent looking bead on and you don’t have to worry about the flux making pinholes.

All that being said, if you have to do it outside, go with a stick welder. The wind will blow the gas out and you’ll have shit.

A few things I would suggest, if you’re going to do it, spend the money to get a Miller or Lincoln. A little bit of money buys a lot of quality with welders. Makes life easier.

Another thing that makes life easier is a dynamic hood. They’re not that expensive and it makes it a hell of a lot easier get get the bead started. Especially if you’re a bumbling ****ing moron like me. Just park that think somewhere else when you’re grinding. Picking up the hood and realizing you’ve wrecked the lens with sparks sucks.

[DJ's left nut]

Originally Posted by Buehler445

Preface: Buehler445 is a shit welder.

Plus it’s easier to put out a decent looking bead on and you don’t have to worry about the flux making pinholes.

Another thing that makes life easier is a dynamic hood. They’re not that expensive and it makes it a hell of a lot easier get get the bead started. Especially if you’re a bumbling ****ing moron like me. Just park that think somewhere else when you’re grinding. Picking up the hood and realizing you’ve wrecked the lens with sparks sucks.

I'm still pretty sure you and I should be best friends...

[Buehler445]

Originally Posted by DJ's left nut

I'm still pretty sure you and I should be best friends...

Wait. We’re not?

[DJ's left nut]

Originally Posted by Buehler445

Wait. We’re not?

Shhhhh......

O.City gets jealous.

[Buehler445]

[Mr. Wizard]

Hmm, I’ve taught welding to high school and adult welders for 32 years now so thought I might be qualified to reply. Maybe.
1- most importantly, what is your electrical availability? Voltage AND amperage. Example, 110volt line and 20 amp breaker that runs to multiple outlets or 110 volt line that is dedicated to the power source only with a 30 amp breaker or 220 volt dedicated line.
2- I have purchased hundreds of power sources and for the hobby welders the off brand ones are quite fine. Remember, most of this is old technology. Not much new until you get into the high end range. I will reply later with some cool options.
3- What do you need your duty cycle to be? Duty cycle is the number of minutes a power source can operate at a certain amperage before it overheats. Example, turn your toaster on high, put bread in and as soon as it pops out put more in and do it again and again, eventually it quits working until it cools down OR it catches on fire. Really cheap power sources have very low duty cycles. The typical wire welder ( a person is a welder and they weld with a power source) in a hobby situation will weld about 2-4 minutes out of 10. This would require a 40 percent duty cycle. A professional may need twice that.
4- What thickness range are you going to be welding? Sheet metal up to what?..
5- Are you ok with bottle rental for a wire welder?
6- What is your experience with stick, wire, and tig.

Answer these questions then we will go further "……..

[penguinz]

Originally Posted by Mr. Wizard

Hmm, I’ve taught welding to high school and adult welders for 32 years now so thought I might be qualified to reply. Maybe.
1- most importantly, what is your electrical availability? Voltage AND amperage. Example, 110volt line and 20 amp breaker that runs to multiple outlets or 110 volt line that is dedicated to the power source only with a 30 amp breaker or 220 volt dedicated line.
2- I have purchased hundreds of power sources and for the hobby welders the off brand ones are quite fine. Remember, most of this is old technology. Not much new until you get into the high end range. I will reply later with some cool options.
3- What do you need your duty cycle to be? Duty cycle is the number of minutes a power source can operate at a certain amperage before it overheats. Example, turn your toaster on high, put bread in and as soon as it pops out put more in and do it again and again, eventually it quits working until it cools down OR it catches on fire. Really cheap power sources have very low duty cycles. The typical wire welder ( a person is a welder and they weld with a power source) in a hobby situation will weld about 2-4 minutes out of 10. This would require a 40 percent duty cycle. A professional may need twice that.
4- What thickness range are you going to be welding? Sheet metal up to what?..
5- Are you ok with bottle rental for a wire welder?
6- What is your experience with stick, wire, and tig.

Answer these questions then we will go further "……..

1. Garage outlets are 110 but the breaker box is just on other side of wall so could run a new 220 if needed.

2. Never going to be a pro and in reality probably just used a handful of times per year so I don’t want to break the bank on one.

3. From what you stated a 40 % duty sounds plenty.

4. Thickest I can think I would be using for now is maybe 3/8 but most likely 3/16.

5. If best for my needs then yes.

6. High school industrial shop class is only experience. Was decent at it if I am remembering correctly.

[Sassy Squatch]

May as well run that 220 now if you're planning on welding 3/8th inches, at least if you're going the MIG route.

[penguinz]

Originally Posted by Superturtle

May as well run that 220 now if you're planning on welding 3/8th inches, at least if you're going the MIG route.

Now that I read that 3/16 is by far most likely. Was not thinking clearly on that post. :-)

[Sassy Squatch]

[R Clark]

Originally Posted by Superturtle

Depends what you want to spend and how much versatility you want the welder to have. Pretty sure we ended up going with a Miller 141 because of the ease of use and had no problems.

Originally Posted by penguinz

Now that I read that 3/16 is by far most likely. Was not thinking clearly on that post. :-)

If 3/16 and down a mig would be the ticket, don’t fool with the flux core wire get a bottle of gas it will be easier to weld and look good. Gas or flux on welding rod is a shield so you don’t get perosity in your weld nothing to do with bonding the metal.. I have a Miller 225 (mig) for the shop as was mentioned earlier the wind will blow your gas away. For heavy or something that can’t fail we use stick.you can look around and find an dc Lincoln cracker box pretty inexpensive and they are good little machines older ones even better.that wire feed I mentioned runs about 3500 but Miller makes smaller less expensive models that would most likely fit your needs.

[srvy]

Miller for MIG and TIG and Lincoln for stick. That's what a pipeline welder once told me anyway.

He told me for user friendliness for general use Hobart Handler which is in the Miller family.