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Topic Starter |
Wearing ballistic dog goggles.
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: In the box.
Casino cash: $2861503
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My dog is a fighter.
How do I cure it? She’s a Catahoula cur.
She’s great with people, very friendly and loving, but get her around another dog and it’s on. This weekend she got in a fight with a buddies blood hound one day and another buddies German short hair the next. I hate it. I can’t take her anywhere with me if she’s constantly trying to dominate every dog we run across. So, any helpful hints? How do I tame an aggressive dog without breaking her spirit? |
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#2 | |
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#3 | |
Wearing ballistic dog goggles.
Join Date: Mar 2001
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I’ve worked with dogs for hunting and retrieving but have never had a dog as aggressive as she is.
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#4 |
Supporter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ozarks
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OK, Radar, someone has to say it.
Anti Freeze. J/K, but you knew that had to come when you started this thread. ![]() |
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#5 | |
Wearing ballistic dog goggles.
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: In the box.
Casino cash: $2861503
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Like "Cool Hand" Luke I'm busting rocks. __/|_/[___] |/ \\_| ---OllllO _( ))~-( ))-0--)) |
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#6 | |
Feeling Victorian
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Nebraska/Wyoming/Colorado
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![]() It happens I guess, but I've really never been around a really aggressive dog that's female. So I really have no idea how to work on that with her. And I sure as hell wouldn't mount the dog. ![]() It's a good thing you have her though. She would of never make it to adoption in a pound.
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#7 |
Cheaterlover*
Join Date: May 2009
Location: RI
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#8 | |
Sauntering Vaguely Downwards
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Columbia, Mo
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If you take a dog with a true chemical issue or legitimately ingrained hostility and try that alpha roll bullshit, you'll end up with an extremely dangerous animal on your hands. You're likely to have a dog that now sees itself in competition with humans rather than just dogs. Or you'll end up with a standoffish dog determined not to slip any further in the pecking order. Sure, he may see you as the dude that can whup him, but maybe not that 7 year old next door. I cannot recommend strongly enough against that thing (and Milan in general). My recommendation, though frowned on by some, has always been an adjustable shock collar. You'll need one with variable settings and never use more than is absolutely necessary to resolve a situation. You will also need to train the dog on just exactly what it means. I know a guy that got one, slapped it on his dog and proceeded to blast the hell out of the thing anytime it did something wrong. Well the poor dog didn't know what the shock was, where it was coming from or what it signified. All that did was create a nervous animal. You need to put him in a controlled situation with a 'benign' distraction (like a child with a dog treat or something). Put a long check-cord on him and let him go towards the distraction. Tell him to come, invariably he will not and then you'll activate the shock collar while pulling on the check-cord. As soon as he breaks from the distraction and starts coming back like you said, release the charge. It won't take him long to realize that the shock means that he needs to stop what he's doing and listen for your command. In time you can dial the shock down to where it's just a chirp and no real juice. The nice thing about the variable power, however, is that if he's in a real mess and won't listen, the option of incapacitating him is always there. I've never needed it, but it's an option worth having. Just remember, to the man with a hammer, the world looks like a nail. Don't go overboard with the juice on those things, it's not designed to hurt but to re-focus. After a few of those situations arise, the dog will realize that it's the aggression towards other animals that's getting him the shock and if you're discreet enough with the remote, he'll never associate the pain with you, simply the commands. Anytime you're in a situation where he may see another dog, have the collar on him and ready to rock. In time you may be able to wean him off it. If you can't, c'est la vie, but it's still an effective tool for managing the situation even if it can't fully eliminate it.
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#9 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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#10 | |
Cheaterlover*
Join Date: May 2009
Location: RI
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#11 |
Mama Tried
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Missouri
Casino cash: $9949903
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once they 'turn on' there aint no rehab. buy a parting stick, learn to handle, and keep your dog outta those situations.
This is as sound advice as i can give you. Edit- you own a 'catch dog' plain and simple. invest in one of these. http://catchdogreleasetool.viviti.com/ Good rep. for being a sound product.
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#12 | |
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#13 | |
Wearing ballistic dog goggles.
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: In the box.
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Quote:
Sounds like it’s to break their grip once they’re clamped on. I’d like to stop the problem before it gets to that point.
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#14 | |
Mama Tried
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Missouri
Casino cash: $9949903
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you take the dog by the back of the neck pulling back and insert the stick between the back of the jaw and twist. might take a few times but it will part a dog. Id let em swap it out for a minute just to burn abit of energy then part em. wost thats gonna happen is theyll need acouple days of pen-g. (PM me up if you need the dose) Im telling ya radar, once they turn on to other fur its an impossible task to turn em off. Ive never ever had one that i could 'turn off' once 'on'.
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True Son of Liberty |
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#15 | |
Wearing ballistic dog goggles.
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: In the box.
Casino cash: $2861503
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Quote:
Maybe if we had her as a puppy we could’ve socialized her more but it’s probably just too late for that now.
__________________
Like "Cool Hand" Luke I'm busting rocks. __/|_/[___] |/ \\_| ---OllllO _( ))~-( ))-0--)) |
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