Car Care and Detailing Thread

[lewdog]

Others mentioned I should start this thread in my other thread. And while I won't have the new car for a while, I'd like to hear some thoughts and recommendations so I can have most of it on hand before the car shows up. My other thread had a lot of great posts in it and you guys have been a big help.

While black cars looks great clean, keeping it relatively clean in Phoenix might be the death of me. But I'll sure as shit give it my best shot.

I actually like cleaning and waxing our current cars but it's not like I am being meticulous about it. I've never had a car with rims either and I know those can get dirty quick. I've never owned a dark colored car and I've never had a car with leather. I plan to take really good care of this car and would like some tips on doing so. But I'm just a ****ing n00b.

I'll throw some links out from Amazon as I mention things.


Some of the things already on my list are:
1. Not sure if everyone recommends wool wash mitt over micorfiber here but many people I know do?
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt

2. Grit guard and two wash buckets. One for rinse and one for soap/water.

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt

3. Waffle Weave Drying towel. There are tons of towels out there but this seems to be able to take up a lot of water.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q8DMA0/...I21164SXVV1AWB

4. Car Wash

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXFO/...b_recs_2_title


Some mention that after washing you should use a paint cleanser before waxing. But wondering if washing then clay baring is sufficient prior to wax?

I've seen this P21S Paintwork Cleanser mentioned on a few reads. Looks like good use for water spots and swirls prior to waxing if needed. Not sure if you would do entire car first or just use it for bad spots before waxing?

http://www.amazon.com/P21S-12350B-Pa...twork+Cleanser


Also, a company called Zaino has great reviews and recommendations. They have a package that looks like it includes all products I'd need together including wash, polish, wax, leather and tire care.

http://www.zainostore.com/mm5/mercha...y_Code=prokits



I do not have a polisher and would need to get one of those as well but not sure where to start on that front.



Can't wait to see what you guys have tried and recommend.

[Donger]

Originally Posted by Buehler445

No expert, but I'm pretty sure it is the manner in which you use your brakes.

I use them to slow the vehicle down.

[Bugeater]

Donger is going to die in that car.

[lewdog]

Originally Posted by Bugeater

Donger is going to die in that car.

I bet he drives it like a little bitch.

He's probably never even red-lined it.

[Donger]

Originally Posted by Bugeater

Donger is going to die in that car.

No, actually the first one I got I did have nightmares that I was going to die in it. Not this one.

[Donger]

Originally Posted by lewdog

I bet he drives it like a little bitch.

He's probably never even red-lined it.

I grew up driving sports cars. I approach red line on almost shift, but I see no reason to exceed it. The power band has already been passed at that point.

[cooper barrett]

Originally Posted by Bugeater

They're Nazis about it up here. They don't give a shit if your car was designed to have one or not. Kansas is the only state I know of that doesn't require them.

Indiana

[cooper barrett]

Originally Posted by stevieray

...the old z cars rock. They were pretty damn quick back in the day.

Inline 6's are rock solid.

It's over 300hp. 280 block, bored, low compression E88 head from a late 260Z. Close to 10.5 CP with the forged, domed pistons, 3- 44MM Solex Mikuni's and 3 into 2_ 2 1/2 outlet headers into 3" single SS Magnaflow tucked in at the back. The picture was taken with the 2 1/2 all the way out the back after the Supertrap's were removed as someone cut them. off.

The inside is bare bones with an aluminum old school racing seat bolted to the floor and only the dash and door covers remain. I did find a picture of the roll bar that SCCA allowed at the time, but no longer. No Heater, no radio, Just toggles and breakers and an Accusump in the drivers floor making it look more like an airplane like the old British cars. The Nissan Comp, Now Nismo guys knew me and my credit card well.

The paint came out great and when I showed it to guys like when Ron Butler (Butler Brothers) he got his brother (the painter) and they at me laughed and said some thing like: "Sure you did... but whoever re-did the flares and painted it did dammed nice work" Then came out the pictures of my garage with it in PPG epoxy sealer primer green....

Over 15 years the paint looks great, but not perfect, and there are a couple of hairline cracks on the rear wells but nothing an epoxy backing and touch up paint and wet dry can't make disappear.

[Miles]

Looks like I might make it an entire two days before my car gets rained on after washing last night.

[Simply Red]

Originally Posted by Miles

Looks like I might make it an entire two days before my car gets rained on after washing last night.

LOL - I understand - same thing here!

[mikeyis4dcats.]

Originally Posted by lewdog

Use plumbers putty. So cheap and it’s basically the same thing. Use with detailing spray and save tons of cash from the clay bar kits.

pretty much ever review I've read they don't do near as good.

[SuperChief]

Originally Posted by mikeyis4dcats.

pretty much ever review I've read they don't do near as good.

I'd be hesitant to do this. No magic pill, ya'll.

[cooper barrett]

Originally Posted by SuperChief

I'd be hesitant to do this. No magic pill, ya'll.

I owned a mobile touch up business and used PP on the lots and my wifey's car when needed. It worked well but found on my own cars, the real deal was a great final step.

[cooper barrett]

Originally Posted by SuperChief

I'd be hesitant to do this. No magic pill, ya'll.

I owned a mobile touch up business (air brush touch up, bed fogs, bumper repairs, air dams, and even dually fenders...). I used PP on the used car lots, and my wifey's car, when needed. It worked well but found the real deal was better so I used it sparingly after the PP.

[lewdog]

Originally Posted by mikeyis4dcats.

pretty much ever review I've read they don't do near as good.

Wrong. Plumbers putty is damn near the same thing and I’ve used it for years with a detailing spray. Does the same job as a clay bar kit at 25% the cost.

[cooper barrett]

Originally Posted by lewdog

Wrong. Plumbers putty is damn near the same thing and I’ve used it for years with a detailing spray. Does the same job as a clay bar kit at 25% the cost.