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Mod Team
Join Date: Sep 2011
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Car Care and Detailing Thread
Others mentioned I should start this thread in my other thread. And while I won't have the new car for a while, I'd like to hear some thoughts and recommendations so I can have most of it on hand before the car shows up. My other thread had a lot of great posts in it and you guys have been a big help.
While black cars looks great clean, keeping it relatively clean in Phoenix might be the death of me. But I'll sure as shit give it my best shot. I actually like cleaning and waxing our current cars but it's not like I am being meticulous about it. I've never had a car with rims either and I know those can get dirty quick. I've never owned a dark colored car and I've never had a car with leather. I plan to take really good care of this car and would like some tips on doing so. But I'm just a ****ing n00b. I'll throw some links out from Amazon as I mention things. Some of the things already on my list are: 1. Not sure if everyone recommends ![]() http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt 2. Grit guard and two wash buckets. One for rinse and one for soap/water. http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt 3. Waffle Weave Drying towel. There are tons of towels out there but this seems to be able to take up a lot of water. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q8DMA0/...I21164SXVV1AWB 4. Car Wash http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXFO/...b_recs_2_title Some mention that after washing you should use a paint cleanser before waxing. But wondering if washing then clay baring is sufficient prior to wax? I've seen this P21S Paintwork Cleanser mentioned on a few reads. Looks like good use for water spots and swirls prior to waxing if needed. Not sure if you would do entire car first or just use it for bad spots before waxing? http://www.amazon.com/P21S-12350B-Pa...twork+Cleanser Also, a company called Zaino has great reviews and recommendations. They have a package that looks like it includes all products I'd need together including wash, polish, wax, leather and tire care. http://www.zainostore.com/mm5/mercha...y_Code=prokits I do not have a polisher and would need to get one of those as well but not sure where to start on that front. Can't wait to see what you guys have tried and recommend. |
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#301 | |
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#302 |
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I didn't watch this video but I've seen him do his method on other cars and he just uses two buckets and soaked microfibers using all 8 sides of the towel with the soaked solution. A mild mist over the section with product before swiping. That's it that I've seen. Is he using an air compressor for something?
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#303 | |
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#304 |
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That's the method I know about. I will give him this, it's easily the safest of the efficient ways to wash your car. Still not the safest anytime you put cloth to a part of the car that has known dirt on it IMO. Many agree with me. But being anal and careful are two different things. But for those looking to treat their paint well and maybe don't have access to a hose like for many people who live in cities, his method is a great way to do it. If I was to do the safest method it would still be a full rinse/flood of the car before touching it, followed by the Gary Dean method for removing the dirt, followed by air drying the paint. Depends how anal you want to be and how much time you have though. It is still pretty amazing how soft some car's clear-coats can be!
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#305 |
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I've tried a lot of different products...the best I've found are P21S paint cleanser and Wolfgang 3.0 paint sealant.
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#306 | |
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Quote:
We do something similar in our shop....but we use an air compressor with a low pressure nozzle to blow the car down first. Then we use a detailer spray and microfiber clothes to wipe the entire car down. We never, ever wipe the car with anything unless it's been blown off first, and if it's at a show i have to wipe it down every couple of hours with a microfiber cloth and detailer spray. And to be fair, painted cars never sit outside and the cars are never on the road, so the amount of dirt they collect is extremely minimal.
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#307 |
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That is the method I have been using for roughly 2 years that I learned from a detailing forum referencing one of his earlier videos. Can do the process in about 30 minutes while still being careful and its by far the best option if you don't have a hose (I live in a condo). Still get some micro-scratches but don't think they develop any faster than than traditional 2 wash.
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#308 | |
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Quote:
![]() ![]() I've actually given up the duster and spot cleaning with quick detailer for the most part. I will let the car hold a bit of dust, still looks clean from more than 5 feet away, and wait to touch the paint until I do a full wash. Cars here get covered in pollen quickly but I am content leaving it now. In the perfect lighting in my garage I could see the micro-scratches the duster was putting into the paint and cleaning up small stuck on shit takes a bit too much rubbing pressure to remove with a simple detail spray. Only thing I'll tackle with the detail spray is bird shit. |
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#309 | |
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Defiantly agree with not trying to do stuff in between washes other than bird shit. As you have seen with black paint just touch it as little as possible. |
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#310 |
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How do you get rid of bug juice stains and road grime on the hood which won't come off with high pressure spray and/or light rubbing?
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#311 |
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Clay bar? I just did a whole car in +-1 hr. The hood would be a 15 minute job...now post clay treatment is for another poster.
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#312 |
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Garry Deans detail juice took the bugs right off without an issue for me. Took some tar right off too. Sprayed on and wiped right off.
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#313 |
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gracias
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#314 |
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I tried Back to Black on a 2003 H2. all the plastic on the outside...and there is a TON of it...was faded to grey. this did not work. then I tried Wipe New. that stuff is the real deal! 2 years later all the plastic I treated is still jet black.
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#315 |
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Nice. I'll keep that in mind. Back to Black worked really well for me, but maybe my plastics were less faded? I'll keep that in mind and keep my eyes peeled for Wipe New.
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