Car Care and Detailing Thread

[lewdog]

Others mentioned I should start this thread in my other thread. And while I won't have the new car for a while, I'd like to hear some thoughts and recommendations so I can have most of it on hand before the car shows up. My other thread had a lot of great posts in it and you guys have been a big help.

While black cars looks great clean, keeping it relatively clean in Phoenix might be the death of me. But I'll sure as shit give it my best shot.

I actually like cleaning and waxing our current cars but it's not like I am being meticulous about it. I've never had a car with rims either and I know those can get dirty quick. I've never owned a dark colored car and I've never had a car with leather. I plan to take really good care of this car and would like some tips on doing so. But I'm just a ****ing n00b.

I'll throw some links out from Amazon as I mention things.


Some of the things already on my list are:
1. Not sure if everyone recommends wool wash mitt over micorfiber here but many people I know do?
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt

2. Grit guard and two wash buckets. One for rinse and one for soap/water.

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt

3. Waffle Weave Drying towel. There are tons of towels out there but this seems to be able to take up a lot of water.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q8DMA0/...I21164SXVV1AWB

4. Car Wash

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXFO/...b_recs_2_title


Some mention that after washing you should use a paint cleanser before waxing. But wondering if washing then clay baring is sufficient prior to wax?

I've seen this P21S Paintwork Cleanser mentioned on a few reads. Looks like good use for water spots and swirls prior to waxing if needed. Not sure if you would do entire car first or just use it for bad spots before waxing?

http://www.amazon.com/P21S-12350B-Pa...twork+Cleanser


Also, a company called Zaino has great reviews and recommendations. They have a package that looks like it includes all products I'd need together including wash, polish, wax, leather and tire care.

http://www.zainostore.com/mm5/mercha...y_Code=prokits



I do not have a polisher and would need to get one of those as well but not sure where to start on that front.



Can't wait to see what you guys have tried and recommend.

[SAGA45]

Just bout a 2015 Smokey Blue KIA Optima ..any recommendations for a cleaning kit to start with? Price isn't much of an issue as I very much want to maintain the appearance of my car.

Thanks in advance

[lewdog]

Originally Posted by SAGA45

Just bout a 2015 Smokey Blue KIA Optima ..any recommendations for a cleaning kit to start with? Price isn't much of an issue as I very much want to maintain the appearance of my car.

Thanks in advance

Get two 5 gallon buckets from Home Depot or Lowe's. Use the 2 bucket method for washing. On bucket has your soap in it, the other is to rinse the wash mitt after it touches your car and is dirty.

Get grit guards for each bucket.

http://www.amazon.com/The-Grit-Guard.../dp/B000N3W8J0

Get a decent car wash soap. I like this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164...words=car+wash

Get two wash mitts. I prefer Microfiber. I switch to a new mitt halfway through the car if it's dirty.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

I use an inexpensive leaf blower to aid in drying my car. It works great. Still requires some toweling off but really cuts down my time and risk of micro-marring. I own this one, it's cheap and plenty fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Greenworks-240...ds=leaf+blower

Get some waffle weave towels. With the blower, I need about 2 to do my car. Without the blower, about 4 towels.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiars-X...Towel/29069544


Get some Microfiber towels for the wheels. Cheapest and easiest way to clean them is with ammonia free Windex. Takes stuff right off and provides an excellent shine while being safe. Avoid wheel cleaners if you can, most are very harsh.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-...crofiber&psc=1


Use whatever wax you like but a good wax without spending boat loads of money is NXT 2.0. Easy application, although it requires a 30-60 minute dry time in my experience based on weather conditions. Do the finger swipe test to determine when it's dry. If you swipe your finger on the wax and it smears, it needs more time. If you swipe your finger and the paint looks clear, it's ready to come off.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G-127...ywords=nxt+2.0

[BigRedChief]

Originally Posted by lewdog

Get two 5 gallon buckets from Home Depot or Lowe's. Use the 2 bucket method for washing. On bucket has your soap in it, the other is to rinse the wash mitt after it touches your car and is dirty.

Get grit guards for each bucket.

http://www.amazon.com/The-Grit-Guard.../dp/B000N3W8J0

Get a decent car wash soap. I like this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164...words=car+wash

Get two wash mitts. I prefer Microfiber. I switch to a new mitt halfway through the car if it's dirty.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

I use an inexpensive leaf blower to aid in drying my car. It works great. Still requires some toweling off but really cuts down my time and risk of micro-marring. I own this one, it's cheap and plenty fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Greenworks-240...ds=leaf+blower

Get some waffle weave towels. With the blower, I need about 2 to do my car. Without the blower, about 4 towels.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiars-X...Towel/29069544


Get some Microfiber towels for the wheels. Cheapest and easiest way to clean them is with ammonia free Windex. Takes stuff right off and provides an excellent shine while being safe. Avoid wheel cleaners if you can, most are very harsh.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-...crofiber&psc=1


Use whatever wax you like but a good wax without spending boat loads of money is NXT 2.0. Easy application, although it requires a 30-60 minute dry time in my experience based on weather conditions. Do the finger swipe test to determine when it's dry. If you swipe your finger on the wax and it smears, it needs more time. If you swipe your finger and the paint looks clear, it's ready to come off.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G-127...ywords=nxt+2.0

Saga45, do a search for Garry Dean 2 bucket wash method. He shows you how to do it.

[Miles]

Anyone tried one of the Nanoskin products for removing contamination instead of clay? Have been reading it a less of a pain in the ass and quicker and thinking of trying it out.

Planning to do a full correction on my car in the next month or two. It has been around 2 years since I last did the entire car and starting to really show with the black paint even though I have been touching it up in spots.

[Miles]

If anyone needs a dual action polisher this is one of the best deals I have seen in a while since it includes quality swirl removal and polishing product plus the pads and backing plate.

Additional 20% off with code LUCKY20 before 11 central tomorrow and free shipping.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/griot...isher-duo.html

[SAGA45]

Originally Posted by lewdog

Get two 5 gallon buckets from Home Depot or Lowe's. Use the 2 bucket method for washing. On bucket has your soap in it, the other is to rinse the wash mitt after it touches your car and is dirty.

Get grit guards for each bucket.

[url]http://www.amazon.com/The-Grit-Guard-Insert-Red/dp/B000N3W8J0[/urll]

Get a decent car wash soap. I like this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164...words=car+wash

Get two wash mitts. I prefer Microfiber. I switch to a new mitt halfway through the car if it's dirty.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

I use an inexpensive leaf blower to aid in drying my car. It works great. Still requires some toweling off but really cuts down my time and risk of micro-marring. I own this one, it's cheap and plenty fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Greenworks-240...ds=leaf+blower

Get some waffle weave towels. With the blower, I need about 2 to do my car. Without the blower, about 4 towels.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiars-X...Towel/29069544


Get some Microfiber towels for the wheels. Cheapest and easiest way to clean them is with ammonia free Windex. Takes stuff right off and provides an excellent shine while being safe. Avoid wheel cleaners if you can, most are very harsh.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-...crofiber&psc=1


Use whatever wax you like but a good wax without spending boat loads of money is NXT 2.0. Easy application, although it requires a 30-60 minute dry time in my experience based on weather conditions. Do the finger swipe test to determine when it's dry. If you swipe your finger on the wax and it smears, it needs more time. If you swipe your finger and the paint looks clear, it's ready to come off.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G-127...ywords=nxt+2.0

Great stuff! Now I can get the tools to treat my baby right!! Thanx man!

How about the interior? I don't eat or allow eating in the car. I don't even go through drive thru as I don't want any soda dripping in the car lol.

My interior is no frills...no wood or leather....basic stuff. I want to keep the seat, carpet and dash lookin good. What do you recommend there?

[lewdog]

Originally Posted by Miles

Anyone tried one of the Nanoskin products for removing contamination instead of clay? Have been reading it a less of a pain in the ass and quicker and thinking of trying it out.

Planning to do a full correction on my car in the next month or two. It has been around 2 years since I last did the entire car and starting to really show with the black paint even though I have been touching it up in spots.

I have not. I have been told you can use Plumber's Putty to clay your car and that stuff is really cheap. It's not super hard to clay your car and it doesn't take too much time so I'll just keep it old fashioned.

Let me know if you give the Nanoskin a try.

Originally Posted by Miles

If anyone needs a dual action polisher this is one of the best deals I have seen in a while since it includes quality swirl removal and polishing product plus the pads and backing plate.

Additional 20% off with code LUCKY20 before 11 central tomorrow and free shipping.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/griot...isher-duo.html

I tried to polish my car once and I really felt very uncomfortable about what I was doing. I watched and researched a ton before doing it but I still felt I didn't know how much polishing compound to put on, how long to stay in one spot and how I could tell if I was doing any good or causing damage. I'd love any tips from you when you get a chance. I'd just like to polish my hood, which is where most of my micro-marring takes place.

[lewdog]

Originally Posted by SAGA45

Great stuff! Now I can get the tools to treat my baby right!! Thanx man!

How about the interior? I don't eat or allow eating in the car. I don't even go through drive thru as I don't want any soda dripping in the car lol.

My interior is no frills...no wood or leather....basic stuff. I want to keep the seat, carpet and dash lookin good. What do you recommend there?

I am switching to this product for my interior dash next time after some recommendations from others.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE/...M4NJJ6BY&psc=1

If you want a simple cleaner, buy a plush microfiber cloth and spray this on your dash. Smells good and cleans well.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1361...terior+cleaner


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQYCJNU/...I1KEI72JZ0YZXU

[SAGA45]

Originally Posted by lewdog

I am switching to this product for my interior dash next time after some recommendations from others.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE/...M4NJJ6BY&psc=1

If you want a simple cleaner, buy a plush microfiber cloth and spray this on your dash. Smells good and cleans well.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1361...terior+cleaner


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQYCJNU/...I1KEI72JZ0YZXU

Thanks again man! Got everything list set to order. Should get here by Friday. Do I need a Clay kit before applying the wax or will a thorough and meticulous wash do just fine?

[Miles]

Originally Posted by lewdog

I tried to polish my car once and I really felt very uncomfortable about what I was doing. I watched and researched a ton before doing it but I still felt I didn't know how much polishing compound to put on, how long to stay in one spot and how I could tell if I was doing any good or causing damage. I'd love any tips from you when you get a chance. I'd just like to polish my hood, which is where most of my micro-marring takes place.

Sounds like you bought a polisher already and what did you get? If you have a dual action I have always felt those are fairly idiot proof (also all I have used) and I have been hardly the expert user. You very likely have minimal risk of ****ing something up unless you are using using pretty abrasive product/pad which are usually labeled with scary words like cutting. Knowing that (or thinking I did) helped me a lot with he learning curve over the years. With a dual action it can actually take a bit of work to polish out minor scratches meaning sometimes pushing down to create heat and going over the area a number of times.

What you were asking is what I also found complicated as hell these days is what polishes and pads to use for paint correction since there is so much stuff. A swirl remover that polishes out 2000 grit and a final polish is what I have been using. Basically what is sold a polish "duo" on autogeek like Wolfgang or Blackfire. There are lot of levels in between but these are made for people like us to simply.

http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-car-polishes-8oz.html

Lake Country CCS Orange for swirl and white for the final polish product. Smaller pads like 5.5" are even smaller are easier to work with.

[Miles]

Originally Posted by SAGA45

Thanks again man! Got everything list set to order. Should get here by Friday. Do I need a Clay kit before applying the wax or will a thorough and meticulous wash do just fine?

For your new Optima may not have to clay depending on how particular you want to be since its a bit of work put does pay off and expect it to be easy with a new car. The clay removes the surface contaminants that you can't see and there are some your car likely picked up in transit and on the lot. Washing won't get that stuff off but many don't notice. However if you want your car to really have that great detailed look claying before you do anything is a must.

May want to consider polishing before waxing/sealing but IMO completely depends if you actually enjoy doing this stuff since its far more labor intensive that cost.

[Dayze]

wash
clay
polish
wax

in that order and your ride will look incredible. clay/polish etc is definitely worth the extra step and time.

[MIAdragon]

Originally Posted by Miles

For your new Optima may not have to clay depending on how particular you want to be since its a bit of work put does pay off and expect it to be easy with a new car. The clay removes the surface contaminants that you can't see and there are some your car likely picked up in transit and on the lot. Washing won't get that stuff off but many don't notice. However if you want your car to really have that great detailed look claying before you do anything is a must.

May want to consider polishing before waxing/sealing but IMO completely depends if you actually enjoy doing this stuff since its far more labor intensive that cost.

Any new car should need not only clay but an IronX type product. Rail dust is a bitch get it out ASAP. That nano skin someone was talking about is a really good clay alternative. Lasts forever and if you drop it you just wash it off. Worth the investment imo.

[lewdog]

Originally Posted by Miles

Sounds like you bought a polisher already and what did you get? If you have a dual action I have always felt those are fairly idiot proof (also all I have used) and I have been hardly the expert user. You very likely have minimal risk of ****ing something up unless you are using using pretty abrasive product/pad which are usually labeled with scary words like cutting. Knowing that (or thinking I did) helped me a lot with he learning curve over the years. With a dual action it can actually take a bit of work to polish out minor scratches meaning sometimes pushing down to create heat and going over the area a number of times.

What you were asking is what I also found complicated as hell these days is what polishes and pads to use for paint correction since there is so much stuff. A swirl remover that polishes out 2000 grit and a final polish is what I have been using. Basically what is sold a polish "duo" on autogeek like Wolfgang or Blackfire. There are lot of levels in between but these are made for people like us to simply.

http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-car-polishes-8oz.html

Lake Country CCS Orange for swirl and white for the final polish product. Smaller pads like 5.5" are even smaller are easier to work with.

I've got a dual action polisher from Harbor Freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57...her-69924.html

And used 205 Mirror glaze which is light abrasive for light swirls and micro-marring.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=sr_1_2&sr=8-2


I bought these 3 pads but wasn't sure which one I should use.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-Po...Pad-60309.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-co...pad-60311.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-fi...pad-60310.html


As I said, I just felt like I didn't know how much pressure to use, how long to hold it there, how much to put on pad, how to know if it was running too dry. My light in my garage sucks too so that made it harder as well.

[lewdog]

Originally Posted by MIAdragon

Any new car should need not only clay but an IronX type product. Rail dust is a bitch get it out ASAP. That nano skin someone was talking about is a really good clay alternative. Lasts forever and if you drop it you just wash it off. Worth the investment imo.

Interesting. Are you just talking about this simple type of product?

http://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-01...oskin+clay+pad