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09-11-2012, 04:43 PM | #76 |
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Water. It is in my basement, and I had no real way to deal with the fumes of oil-based primer. Only one very small egress window. I used Kilz 2.
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09-11-2012, 04:49 PM | #77 |
The Maintenance Guy
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Bummer, because oil is what you probably need to use. What is likely happening is the water in the drywall mud is loosening up the paper. A solid layer of oil based primer will prevent that. 4 out of 5 times the acrylic primers will do the job, but for stubborn stuff like that you gotta go oil.
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09-11-2012, 05:51 PM | #78 |
Scarlett Johansson's boytoy
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as i posted before, you NEEDED to use OIL based primer. That is why it bubbled.
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09-11-2012, 06:16 PM | #79 |
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I'm glad over-head posted his stuff...confirmed what I would have done. Just mud it and be done with it.
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09-11-2012, 07:51 PM | #80 |
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09-11-2012, 09:17 PM | #81 | |
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Quote:
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09-11-2012, 09:19 PM | #82 |
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I'm not certain but I think a specialty paint store has an additive that will neutralize that. Either that or just use a respirator. You can buy a respirator pretty cheaply and it's not like those fumes forever.
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09-11-2012, 10:02 PM | #83 |
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I used the Gardz Problem Surface Sealer. It will seal under the torn paper and won't bubble up.
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09-11-2012, 10:48 PM | #84 |
The Maintenance Guy
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Not really, I've had plenty of success with Kilz2 in this sort of application. Once in a while I'll have to go back over some areas a few times, and once in a very great while it simply won't work and I have to break out the Original Kilz.
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09-11-2012, 11:32 PM | #85 |
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There's the rub. Lots of different techniques for various problems. Sometimes your tried and true works and sometimes it doesn't. Then you dig deeper into the bag of tricks. I the people who work with me a roadmap and point to the destination for our projects. If they are more efficient utilizing a different technique than I would use myself, that's fine with me. More than 9 ways to skin a cat... errr, I love mixing metaphors.
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