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Old 07-29-2015, 07:10 PM  
Lzen Lzen is offline
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Question for mechanics

I have a 2003 Ford F150 with 103k miles. About 2-3 weeks ago it started dropping the idle really low after it warms up. I replaced the fuel filter but that didn't help. I felt the rubber elbow behind the throttle body and it feels like the vacuum pressure collapsed the elbow. I haven't been driving it much but it usually would run okay it would just die when it was in park. Today on the way to work the check engine light finally came on.

Since my long mechanic had throat cancer and I think he may have passed, I took it to a mechanic that I've never used before. He says the throttle body has a lot of gumup that needs to be cleaned out as well as replacing that collapsed elbow. He also says the IAC needs replaced. Because it was after hours before I returned his call and he was at home, he didn't have the exact estimate. His rough idea estimate is about $450-$500. My question is does all of this sound necessary and does the price sound reasonable?
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:22 AM   #16
stumppy stumppy is online now
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So you think I should take it somewhere else? I still have to pay him for the diagnostic, which is $100. Are you suggesting that I do the repair myself? I guess I might be able to do it myself. I'll have to look on youtube to see how involved it is. I guess it depends on how hard the throttle body is to take off.
You don't have to take it off. Just take the hose off that runs from the air filter housing to the throttle body . Then just clean it without removing it.
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:59 AM   #17
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You don't have to take it off. Just take the hose off that runs from the air filter housing to the throttle body . Then just clean it without removing it.
The thing is that the elbow behind the throttle body is collapsed and I can't get my hands in there too well because it's right up against the firewall. That elbow needs replaced.
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:06 AM   #18
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The thing is that the elbow behind the throttle body is collapsed and I can't get my hands in there too well because it's right up against the firewall. That elbow needs replaced.
I'm not familiar with how the engine is laid out on your truck so I can't help you there. It may very well take some acrobatic moves to get to that hose.
I could be wrong but just cleaning the t-body may help relieve any extra vacumn being drawn through that hose and collapsing it.
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:10 AM   #19
Lzen Lzen is offline
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I'm not familiar with how the engine is laid out on your truck so I can't help you there. It may very well take some acrobatic moves to get to that hose.
I could be wrong but just cleaning the t-body may help relieve any extra vacumn being drawn through that hose and collapsing it.
I may try that first. The thing was that I was trying to replace the PCV valve and that's how I got to where I am. The PCV is on the back side of the throttle body where that elbow is attached.
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:12 AM   #20
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:31 AM   #21
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I may try that first. The thing was that I was trying to replace the PCV valve and that's how I got to where I am. The PCV is on the back side of the throttle body where that elbow is attached.
Isn't it nice how they put the things together.
I'd do what you suggested earlier if you're not used to working on one, look for a youtube video. More than likely if you are just a little handy with a wrench you should be able to do it yourself without any problems. You may end up still needing an IAC motor but for the effort and time I would try these simple repairs first. You'll save yourself a trip to the shop and a couple hundred bucks if it works.
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Old 07-30-2015, 11:52 AM   #22
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Wife's Trailblazer was doing the same thing... cleaned out the Throttle Body and took the brake vacuum line off of the vacuum booster side (the other end should go into your intake manifold somewhere) while the engine is on and at idle dump about 2/3rds can of Seafoam into the hose and when the engine starts really sputtering shut off the motor. Wait about 15-20 minutes for the Seafoam to soak valves and pistons. When you start it back up the smoke will cover your neiborhood. Mosquitoes will die. But you have to keep the engine at 1500 to 2000 RPM for 5 seconds at a time till the smoke is gone. Once you clean out the intake, valves and pistons it should run better. Since you have over 100K you might do this again within 2K miles to help get rid of what the first dose didn't. After that every 10K. This helped my wife's 100K Trailblazer run like new.
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Old 07-30-2015, 11:59 AM   #23
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You saying it's his 7th Vexor Valve or the Bypass Line?
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:37 PM   #24
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You saying it's his 7th Vexor Valve or the Bypass Line?
Don't tell him his busines Boy!
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Old 07-30-2015, 03:31 PM   #25
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Well, I replaced the IAC valve and sprayed the butterfly from outside the throttle body and scrubbed it with a tooth brush. It wasn't quite as dirty as I thought it would be, but it did have some gunk. Funny thing is that is also what the mechanic suggested (I never told him I was gonna do that). Now the truck isn't dying but it is trying to idle too high and fluctuating until it finds the right idle. I still wonder if the elbow behind the throttle body needs replaced. Also, I need to figure out how to reset the service engine light. Pull off battery cable?
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Old 07-30-2015, 04:02 PM   #26
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it sounds like it needs the PCV elbow at the intake.

the pcv itself is actually in the passenger side valve cover. the elbow is on a tube. im not a small fella and i change them quite often so im sure you can handle it.


then go to an oreilly and have them clear the codes. and then drive it over 35 MPH for a little while and allow the idle to reset.
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