Home and Auto Question for the car guys - Page 5

**BigRichard** · 11-20-2013, 07:02 PM

I just bought an older truck to have for winter but I went to start it this morning and the battery was dead. Took the battery up to Autozone and they said it checked out fine but it was completely drained when I brought it in. I did not have the alternator tested yet but the dash gauge shows it is charging good. What else could it be or should I not trust the gauge on the truck? Could something be sucking the juice from the battery as it sits? If so how do I find it?

**SAUTO** · 02-03-2014, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigRichard

Firing order is on top of the manifold. I have double and triple checked. All is good.

pull the coil wire and have someone crank it while watching the spray of the injectors, the should pulse somewhat. flow fluctuates. you should see it "fire". should also fan out.
check and make sure there is vacuum to the map sensor, the port on the throttle body plugs up with carbon.

tug on the grounds make sure the crimp didn't break connection when loosening or tightening.

there should also have been a ground IIRC on the back of the passenger head, make sure you got it back bolted down. not the ground strap to the body either, computer ground the breaks out of the harness.

check those and let me know if you need more suggestions of what to check next.

**SAUTO** · 02-03-2014, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigRichard

Firing order is on top of the manifold. I have double and triple checked. All is good.

and 1357 and 2468 right?

**BigRichard** · 02-03-2014, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JASONSAUTO

sounds like the map sensor vacuum hose is unhooked or plugged at the throttle body.
or a ground is loose or wires pinched that have an injector hung open.

the map sensor is that square box in the upper left of your picture just above the egr valve that is missing the vacuum hose.

are you sure you have the firing order right?

In that picture I did have the hose off of the egr valve but it was on when I was trying to start it. There is also a hose going from the map sensor to the back of the carb. I am done ****ing with it tonight but I will check to see if it is plugged possibly.

**BigRichard** · 02-03-2014, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JASONSAUTO

pull the coil wire and have someone crank it while watching the spray of the injectors, the should pulse somewhat. flow fluctuates. you should see it "fire". should also fan out.
check and make sure there is vacuum to the map sensor, the port on the throttle body plugs up with carbon.

tug on the grounds make sure the crimp didn't break connection when loosening or tightening.

there should also have been a ground IIRC on the back of the passenger head, make sure you got it back bolted down. not the ground strap to the body either, computer ground the breaks out of the harness.
check those and let me know if you need more suggestions of what to check next.

Yeah I almost missed that when putting it back together but I did get it. It is a cable on the back of the passenger head just as you described.

**SAUTO** · 02-03-2014, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigRichard

In that picture I did have the hose off of the egr valve but it was on when I was trying to start it. There is also a hose going from the map sensor to the back of the carb. I am done ****ing with it tonight but I will check to see if it is plugged possibly.

oh I wouldn't be worried about not hooking up the EGR hose at all LOL. they run better with it closed.

I used to just block that line off.

its just flooding for some reason. could only be a couple things

**SAUTO** · 02-03-2014, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigRichard

Yeah I almost missed that when putting it back together but I did get it. It is a cable on the back of the passenger head just as you described.

a black wire, thin? maybe two into one eyelet?

not the thick strap...

**SAUTO** · 02-03-2014, 08:08 PM

its not 180 out on the distributor is it?

ive seen them run if its off exactly 180 degrees, just like you are describing. flooding wont stay running...

**BigRichard** · 02-03-2014, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JASONSAUTO

its not 180 out on the distributor is it?

ive seen them run if its off exactly 180 degrees, just like you are describing. flooding wont stay running...

This part is intriguing because before I had it all put together I checked my distributor when I thought I had the first cylinder at TDC and it looked like I had it 180 degrees out of whack so I flipped them around thinking I just screwed up the first time. Maybe I was wrong and I need to flip them back. I will give it a try and find out.

**SAUTO** · 02-03-2014, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigRichard

This part is intriguing because before I had it all put together I checked my distributor when I thought I had the first cylinder at TDC and it looked like I had it 180 degrees out of whack so I flipped them around thinking I just screwed up the first time. Maybe I was wrong and I need to flip them back. I will give it a try and find out.

easy to do.

I would just wire it 180 to see then pull the dist and do it right if it makes it run.

**BigRichard** · 08-11-2014, 05:51 PM

Let me start by saying I love all you car guys on here. You have helped me a few times to fix things.

Now on to my problem that I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what to do. I have a 2011 Nissan Murano LE. The headlight went out and to remove the old one you have this U shaped metal clip that the ends of the U hook under this rabbit ear looking pieces of plastic. Well one of the sides of the pieces of plastic snapped off and I can't seem to find the piece. It is a horrible design with the plastic and was just wondering if anyone had any ideas. According to the dealership I would have to replace the entire headlight housing which is $900 and I am not into taking ass poundings. I found a picture online of a similar light housing (not exactly but you will get the idea) but they were smart and made it out of metal. Thanks oh wise car guys.

**Buzz** · 08-11-2014, 06:17 PM

Junk yard or pull the old one out and use it as a pattern to fabricate a new one out of metal. From the pick, fabricating wouldn't look to be that hard with a vise, drill and dremel tool. You could probably go to the hardware store and buy a "L" bracket if you don't have any scrap lying around and use that as a base. I don't see the point of the saw tooth across the top, other than to rake your knuckles.

kccrow · 08-11-2014, 06:30 PM

Get yourself a curtain rod bracket, the ones for the cheap rods that you'd hang a sheer from or something... like this:

http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servle...FQqJaQodsCwAnQ

drill a hole in the side without the wings and screw it down...

take a piece of wire and wrap it around the clips to keep them from slipping out your bracket.

11-20-2013, 07:02 PM
BigRichard Buddy Christ is a Chiefs fan Join Date: Nov 2008 Casino cash: $-1890454	Question for the car guys I just bought an older truck to have for winter but I went to start it this morning and the battery was dead. Took the battery up to Autozone and they said it checked out fine but it was completely drained when I brought it in. I did not have the alternator tested yet but the dash gauge shows it is charging good. What else could it be or should I not trust the gauge on the truck? Could something be sucking the juice from the battery as it sits? If so how do I find it?
Posts: 11,331

02-03-2014, 08:08 PM	#67
SAUTO Shit Join Date: Jun 2008 Casino cash: $10039067	its not 180 out on the distributor is it? ive seen them run if its off exactly 180 degrees, just like you are describing. flooding wont stay running...
Posts: 55,715

08-11-2014, 05:51 PM	#70
BigRichard Buddy Christ is a Chiefs fan Join Date: Nov 2008 Casino cash: $-1890454	Let me start by saying I love all you car guys on here. You have helped me a few times to fix things. Now on to my problem that I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what to do. I have a 2011 Nissan Murano LE. The headlight went out and to remove the old one you have this U shaped metal clip that the ends of the U hook under this rabbit ear looking pieces of plastic. Well one of the sides of the pieces of plastic snapped off and I can't seem to find the piece. It is a horrible design with the plastic and was just wondering if anyone had any ideas. According to the dealership I would have to replace the entire headlight housing which is $900 and I am not into taking ass poundings. I found a picture online of a similar light housing (not exactly but you will get the idea) but they were smart and made it out of metal. Thanks oh wise car guys. __________________ "You know, they lay down with their ugly wives in front of their ugly children and just look at their loser lives and then they look at me and say, "I CAN'T PROCESS IT!" Well, no, and you never will. Stop trying. Just sit back and enjoy the show .... You know?" Carlos Irwin Estevez
Posts: 11,331

08-11-2014, 06:17 PM	#71
Buzz I like Pie! Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In my garage Casino cash: $10016623	Junk yard or pull the old one out and use it as a pattern to fabricate a new one out of metal. From the pick, fabricating wouldn't look to be that hard with a vise, drill and dremel tool. You could probably go to the hardware store and buy a "L" bracket if you don't have any scrap lying around and use that as a base. I don't see the point of the saw tooth across the top, other than to rake your knuckles.
Posts: 5,383

08-11-2014, 06:30 PM	#72
kccrow MVP Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Michigan Casino cash: $-1260000	Get yourself a curtain rod bracket, the ones for the cheap rods that you'd hang a sheer from or something... like this: http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servle...FQqJaQodsCwAnQ drill a hole in the side without the wings and screw it down... take a piece of wire and wrap it around the clips to keep them from slipping out your bracket.
Posts: 14,119